VILLA GRAZIELLA CHIANTI 2017 DOCG VS. THEIR CHIANTI DOGC 2015 RISERVA

“All palates are personal and correct for the people owning them.” …. James McMillan

“Tasting notes are as personal as a Selective Service Induction Notice.” … James McMillan

The quotes above should be a good clue as to what I think of tasting notes. But perhaps I can add some value in your search for wines to pair with food, because “therein lies all the difference.” While, in the minds of many, Chianti is “birds of a feather”, it is not so.  For those who have read my recent post about Villa Graziella, you know that Villa Graziella is a 12^th generation farm and has been certified organic since 1979.  If you haven’t read that post, may I suggest you go back to it to see a review of Villa Graziella’s 2018 “Rosso Toscano” where those details are disclosed more fully?   https://www.winemizer.net/2019/07/villa-graziella-rosso-toscano-igt-2018.html

Let’s here deal instead with differences in Italian  regulations regarding use of the term “Riserva”. In the U.S., the term “Reserve” is unattached to any legal definition or standard of adherence.  Throughout my travels in the U.S., “Reserva” or “Reserve” may mean a wine that was longer aged. It may mean a wine made from their best grapes, or a larger portion of the grapes being from their best vineyard.  It might mean longer aging or even their best barrels being used. In every winery I visited, it did mean something, but what?  Well, that was up to the winery. Point being, it is not legally defined in the U.S.

In Italy. It means aging.

Whether that is good or bad is up to you.  Personally, I think it’s good because, as a consumer, you’re better prepared to expect what to taste when you do taste the bottle’s contents and that, ultimately, is the why and how of wine becomes and remains personal to your palate.  But there needs to be a second caveat before we progress.  Current releases of these two wines are from different vintages and it will always be so because of the requirements needed to meet Riserva labeling. Current releases of Villa Graziella’s Chianti DOCG are from its 2017 vintage while their Riserva is from the 2015 vintage. 2015 was rated 95 (as a vintage year) by Wine Spectator.  2017 remains, as yet, unrated).  Yes, Virginia, “old world” wines are looked at differently.

One of the ways these wines are looked at differently is how they pair with food. This is not just common with “old world” reds but “old world” whites also. Today, lets just look at these two reds because, especially with “old world” Italian wine, it’s all about acidity and food.                                                                                   

Beef Shanks With Root Vegetables?
I'll Go With The Reserva.

CHIANTI DOCG 2017

I tasted each of these wines over three days (wines being vacuumed pumped and cool stored). On the nose: Cherry, black plum, raspberry; a note of freshly sliced green bell pepper.  It held up remarkably well through day two and three and by the third day offered a slight note of tomato leaf.  Tart cherry was dominant on the palate. Overall, this non-reserva was zippier and brighter than the Riserva (think Crianza, Reserva & Gran Reserva as with Spanish wines) and offered bright notes of raspberry and allspice.  In the glass, it displayed a very thin watery rim on its edge (compared to the riserva, which had no such rim). By the second day, I enjoyed some dried black plum on the finish and, on the third, notes of black olive. 

You don’t need food pairing suggestions from me: Your taste buds already are craving barbecue ribs, roast chicken with rosemary, roasted vegetables made on the grill, and – of course – pizza and pasta with red sauce.  But also, so much more – let your imagination swirl and enjoy (or learn from) the experience.

To appreciate the difference aging makes, let’s start with the DOCG Chianti. The juice from the Sangiovese spends five months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, then four months in 1,000-liter French oak barrels.  The Cab and Colorino are aged in new French oak barriques for nine months. The three varietals are then blended and finished in stainless for two additional months.  The steel, at cool temperature, preserves freshness and aromatics. The oak adds, of course, some tannins but also smooths all the notes together through the “angel’s share” and helps balance all the components.

Brisket?  For me, That's Reserva
Again.

Contrast that against the 2015 CHIANTI RESERVA

The Sangiovese begins with six months in steel and then another 18 months in French oak. The Cabernet is kept aside awaiting blending by spending two years in French oak and then, after being blended, spends another three months in barrel married to the Sangiovese. Reserva wines, under Italian law, require a minimum of two years aging.

There are some differences in the blend also. The DOCG is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Colorino.  The Reserva is a straight up 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The nose of the reserva (for me) was more restrained, but I noted hints of cinnamon and balsamic (fir?) and violet. It offered some earthy notes also. The taste is deeper, dryer - especially until mid-palate when blackberry and black licorice announce themselves toward the finish.  The color is darker and the wine deeper in dark notes than the non-reserva, through it is still rounded.   Some grip (not unpleasant) was evident after the first day. 

The non-reserva (for me) struck me as being deep with rich fruit, led with blackberry (as in farm stand mini-crates), and - with air - developed notes of raspberry. Nonetheless, the wine (either) is dry and while fruit is rich and deep, it is not forward but, instead, reserved: luring, suggestive, tempting: classic "old world". The reserva is this, but deeper and more dry. Aerate or decant either to allow the wine to open and gift you with its aromatics.  Expect some sediment with the reserva, which is natural. You can strain this out toward the bottle’s bottom when pouring if such is a problem.

Ribs, Barbecue Sauced? Time For The
DOCG Though The Rosso
Would Work Well Too.

With the reserva, consider pairing with short ribs (especially bison with a tomato sauce reduction), grilled lamb with rosemary and garlic, pecorino cheese and roasted chestnuts. I’ve enjoyed this wine with beef shanks and roasted root vegetables, brisket and prime rib; all of which begs the question – which wine is better?

And all is which is best answered remembering that “All palates are personal and correct for the people owning them.”  My advice?  Select your meal to pair with the season and then pair it with the wine.  The DOGC retails for less than $15 and the reserva averages $23 and can sometimes be found for less.  It’s best to start with one of each and make your own comparison.

Steak Tips With Mushrooms? Pass The DOCG, Please.

Salute!
..............   Jim

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MINI TECH SPECS:

CHIANTI DOCG

TA:                                         5.45

pH:                                         3.48

ALC:                                       14%

CHIANTI DOCG RISERVA

TA:                                         4.99

pH:                                         3.56

ALC:                                       14

All grapes used for either offering are certified organic. Vines (for either) grow at an altitude of 300 meters (984.25 ft) above sea level.  Soil (for either) is calcareous.  Exposure is SE (except Cabernet Sauvignon, which is NW).  Harvesting is by hand.  

VILLA GRAZIELLA ROSSO TOSCANO IGT 2018

“Wine is sunlight, held together by water.” …. Galileo Galilei

The ICEA Seal Appears On The
Back Label of Each Villa
Graziella Bottle

What a simple and poetic expression from “simpler” times.  Today, crafting wine is science (some good, and some emphasizing intervention).  Then, on an especially good day, you meet up with someone from Villa Graziella and you realize there are people who still respect that simpler philosophy, that simpler understanding of Galileo.  Minimalist intervention, organically grown grapes, organic farming. Almonds (see note below), olive oil – there’s not a lot going on here on the farm in Montespertoli (Mon-Tay-Spear-Tow-Lee) in Tuscany that hasn’t been going on for twelve generations except, in our modern times, to say “organic” requires certification.  And Villa Graziella has that.  The estate has been certified organic and sustainable since 1997 by the ICEA (Italian Environmental & Ethical Certification Institute) and has earned re-certification with every vintage since.

Demographics tell us it is the millennials that care most about this. But it’s safe to assume that everyone cares about how the wine works at the kitchen table (or dining room).  And I found it works in both environments, not to mention picnic tables and tables at the beach. Being labeled as Rosso” (The literal translation of “Rosso di Toscana” is “red [wine] from Tuscany”), it is assumed by many to mean “common” or somehow lesser in quality.  Add in that “IGT” is an acronym for indicazione geografica tipica, which rendered into English, means “typical geographic indication” and one might understand how others could take that all together to mean the wine is not superior.    But let’s remember that “IGT” is also how the “Super Tuscans” were originally and still are classified due to regulation limiting permitted grapes used in their blending.  This rosso is from Tuscany, but the only common thing about it is its price. In terms of price to value, this rosso is definitely superior.

Point being you may find this wine a surprise and deliciously so regardless of whatever demographic you find yourself within.  I grew up with simple rosso wine made by Italian neighbors. But this wine was not that.  No rough edges.  Integration was seamless.  The inclusion of 5% Canaiolo and Colorino (both permitted in the Chianti DOGC and included in the wines of Amarone della Valpolicella for example) add color and some tannin to firm up the wine’s structure, while the Canaiolo contributes softness to the finished blend. Nonetheless, this is Tuscan wine and the blend is comprised of 95% Sangiovese (specifically Sangiovese Piccolo). 

Not The Best Pairing But A
Good Example Of How Well The Wine
Works With Food

The juice is aged seven months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve its aromatics and freshness, making it a perfect summer red. And Sangiovese is a high acid grape making it food-friendly by nature.  Perfect for charcuterie and other casual enjoyments. But I was using whatever was on hand and so made a pizza with whatever ingredients were left over from a previous meal.  Worse, the pizza was not in the style of Southern or even Central Italy: In fact, even the crust was made from almond “flour” (horrors!).  I topped the crust with buffalo mozzarella, basil pesto, dabs of goat cheese and grated Fontina and Parmesan Reggiano.  As I said, I was using what I had on hand and had I any olives, they would have been included.  Despite having no red sauce, the wine did well with this simple meal.  Simple but well-crafted healthy food paired with organic wine.  While the meal wouldn’t win any culinary stars, the wine elevated the meal.  And that, really, is the point of wine made by Villa Graziella: wine that tastes better with food. Food that taste better with wine. 

So what to expect upon opening a bottle of this wine?  Personally, I’d expect to either decant it or allow it to breath for some time allowing the wine to open up and display its aromatics.  Enjoy its light garnet color in the glass, tipping you off to this wine being an enjoyable refresher and one benefiting from being slightly chilled. You’ll be rewarded with notes of black cherry and blackberry as in a compote.  Cranberry and juicy plum tempt the senses and the perfume finishes with a suggestion of anise.  On the palate, I enjoyed a seamless meld of red fruit led by cherry.  The wine is medium bodied with vibrant – but not biting – acidity which is the key needed to unlock the flavors of food.

A Perfect Pairing

Consider enjoying this wine as an alternative to Beaujolais and Pinot Noir.  From the patio to the picnic table, slightly chilled, you’ll find this wine a welcome accompaniment with casual plates.  After tasting it, I later paired it with a charcuterie and it was perfect outdoors at a picnic table lakeside.  With barbecue baby back ribs? Delicious!

BBQ Ribs. Another Perfect Pairing, But Let Your
Imagination Guide You.

                                                                                

Taste this wine and taste the simpler times of, perhaps, your yesterdays, your lineage, or, perhaps, just a rediscovery of what wine was meant to be and can be again - for you

Salute!

………….. Jim

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winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

TECH SPECS:

Villa Graziella:            https://villagraziellaorganic.com/
Region:                       Tuscany

Appellation:                Chianti Colli Fiorentini di Montspertoli, Provence: Florence

Producer:                     Luca Nesi

Wine Make/Enologist:Fabio Signorini

Altitude:                      300 meters (984.25 ft) above sea level

Exposure:                    SE

Soil:                             Calcareous

Training:                      Spurred cordon w/small amount Guyot vine training

Blend:                          90% Sangiovese Piccolo, 5% Canailo, 5% Colorini

Vine Age:                    1985

Density:                       4000-5000 vines per hecatare (9884-12,355 Acres)

TA:                              3.6

pH:                              5.95

ALC:                           14%

Vinification:              12-15 days maceration of hand selected grapes at controlled temp of 24-26C (75-79 F) with soft extraction and frequent punch downs.

Aging:                          7 months 18-20C (65-68F) Temperature controlled stainless

Vineyard Practice:     Organic: Cover cropping between rows with beet root, broad beans, lentils, mustard, rye grass, sweet peas, cow pies and sheep dung compost.

Farming Since:             1797, Family Managed

ARP:                             <$13. U.S.

Note: The almonds referred too (skinless Marcona) are roasted in the organic olive oil produced in Montespertoli but the olives (Marcona) are grown in Spain. 

COLPETRONE MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO

Amici e vini sono meglio vecchi.  (Old wine and friends improve with age)… An Italian proverb.

Trying new wines can be “the best of times” or “the worst of times.”  For a dedicated aficionado of indigenous grapes and the wine that results from their vinification, each bottle is fun and layers on another experience. But for casual enjoyers - those comfortable within their known taste zone – tasting a purchased bottle of wine made from a never-heard-of grape is entered into more cautiously. In real world speak, that means the bottle most often goes untried.  Pity.  A door remains closed that may have opened delights. 

From my outlook, tasting wines made from grapes unknown is always a thrilling and mind opening experience but I respect that everyone’s palate is both personal and correct for the person possessing it.  Perhaps I can add value to this blog by describing some of these grapes and lead you down the road that as Robert Frost said was the less travelled because, indeed, it may make all the difference.

Sagrantino is the grape.  It is indigenous to Montefalco. Montefalco is in Umbria in Italy and the best place for growing this grape. No matter who produces wine made from Sagrantino, if you enjoy sweet or exclusively fruit-forward wine, these wines will prove unpleasant.  If, however, you enjoy wines of different character and you enjoy matching such wine with different foods, or even the seasons, you should consider adding some Sagrantino to your racks.

But add it considerably in advance of when you plan to enjoy it.  Referring to the quote above, Sagrantino improves with age.  In its youth, tannins are concentrated. It’s not uncommon for Sagrantino to open beautifully at eight years of age and improve even further during the next five years. As Cabernet Sauvignon can be bold, powerful, concentrated, masculine and age- worthy so can Sagrantino be.   Fortunately, for us, Colpetrone (the producer) makes Sagrantino in a more international style, meaning you can enjoy it earlier; not meaning the wine made from Sagrantino by Colpetrone has sacrificed its typicity.  

Even so, Colpetrone’s Sagrantino will reward you for patience. With time in the bottle, polymerization binds pigmented tannins into larger particles that will collect as sediment and the juice softens.  In the U.S., winemakers are sensitive to consumers thinking anything but the clearest wine must be a fault. Much of what is produced here has been filtered and fined to such clarity and, being drunk young, has become what many people take as a standard.  Problem is, it is the tartrates and phenolics in wines that develop the aromatic compounds that form bouquet, build taste and develop the varietal’s character.  

This 2009, ten years from vintage, still benefited from air.  Decant for an hour or enjoy the next day after opening.  Full bodied, like a Cabernet Sauvignon, but not fruit forward, it exemplifies “old world” style in fruit being present but subdued as part of a seamless composition. Tertiary notes of chocolate and smoke add complexity.   Its nose offers earth but lifted by lavender. Brambled berries reintroduce the forest element.  Sour cherry and dried cranberry on the palate, some balsamic and dried strawberry linger into a long finish accompanied by a hint of leather and nutmeg. Fruit becomes more pronounced the second day with lots of blackberry, black raspberry and black cherry joined by strawberry (jam) on the nose.  The wine is less edgy and its tannins softened.  Strawberry (jam) also becomes more evident on the palate. But either day, the wine’s acidity provides a somewhat tangy finish making it also food friendly. 

Keep a few bottles aside.  Taste them along the way and enjoy the changes within each bottle.  Fire up the grill on a cool, summer night and pair this wine with grilled meats and game.  Braised meats can warm up the kitchen in the cooler months and Sagrantino from Montefalco will pair nicely then also.  Aged cheeses do well as will red-sauced pasta and pizza.  If you’re lucky enough to have a black truffle on hand, enjoy this wine’s earthiness against some crumbled truffle on the pasta.  Thin sliced Italian beef with green peppers on an Italian roll may look less worthy than a magazine photo but will go together nicely regardless.  

Salute!

……………… Jim

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winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

ETC:

The Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG requires 100% Sagrantino grapes be used, with 37 months aging before release, of which at least 12 months are in oak barrels and 4 months in bottle.  Colpetrone ages its Sagrantino 12 months in oak barrique and another 26 months (minimum) in bottle before release. The grape is noted for its thick skin which naturally develops tannin.

ALC: 14.5%

Imported by: Vias Imports, Ltd., NY, NY.

ARP: $23.

UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO di MONTALCHINO 2006

“Anni e bicchieri di vino non si contano mai” (“Age and glasses of wine should never be counted”) ….. an Italian Proverb

Sometimes the “pro” reviewers and I agree. Sometimes we don’t, or I may think a wine has been over or under rated.  But this wine is one on which everyone agrees.  A 2006 Brunello di Montalcino from Uccelliera  (Azienda Agricola Uccelliera). If you’re unfamiliar with Brunello, know that it is made from Sangiovese, that same grape that makes for the Chianti you so enjoy. 

Brunello di Montalcino indicates it is of Montalcino.  Montalcino is south of Chianti in Tuscany and it is its own DOCG.  The climate is warmer, producing grapes that are riper (and with the potential for higher alcohol).  Being grown at higher altitude, berries are smaller producing thicker grapes with a higher skin to pulp ratio and, therefore, wines with more tannin. 

Brunello also has different aging requirements than does Chianti (even its DOCG). These are not wines to drink now.  But are they worth the wait?  Oh yes!  Deep purple in the glass and taking on coppery age tones at the rim, the nose on this Uccelliera is strong with brandied black cherries and fresh-cut, purple plum with a hint of green pepper.  The palate is immediately alerted with tart cherry but smooths out soon, and with air the texture becomes pure glycerin. Black cherry develops, notes of dried fruit and sweet tobacco contrast herbaceous hints.  Others get strawberry and raspberry. Complex, focused, precise and incredibly delicious. I allowed it an hour in the bottle and another in the decanter and it could have used even more, but didn’t hold up well for the next day despite being vacuum pumped.  Nonetheless, a pleasure to experience and next time, I’ll just have to finish the bottle. 

I served it with a simple green salad, basil-pesto stuffed chicken breasts and a side of zucchini cooked with sweet onion and tomato.  (The harvest of my and my friend’s garden calls and I answer).  But mostly, I intended to enjoy this wine today and mostly I cooked what I had on hand. As a rule, Sangiovese compliments all such tomato rich dishes and whatever the meal is, it is elevated by Sangiovese.  This particular Sangiovese wine lifted it almost out of reach! 

Salute!

………….. Jim

Follow and “Like” Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more.

Winemizer,net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

Note:

90 Points James Suckling,  96 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate,   94 Wine Enthusiast  93 Wine Spectator.  Drinkable 2014-2026.  ARP at time of purchase $56 (now $72) found as a close out for $50.  Imported by deGrazia Imports LLC (Winston-Salem NC).  ALC: 15%.