“Wine is sunlight, held
together by water.” …. Galileo Galilei
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| The ICEA Seal Appears On The Back Label of Each Villa Graziella Bottle |
What a simple and poetic
expression from “simpler” times. Today,
crafting wine is science (some good, and some emphasizing intervention). Then, on an especially good day, you meet up
with someone from Villa Graziella and you realize there are people who still
respect that simpler philosophy, that simpler understanding of Galileo. Minimalist intervention, organically grown
grapes, organic farming. Almonds (see note below), olive oil – there’s not a lot going on here
on the farm in Montespertoli (Mon-Tay-Spear-Tow-Lee) in Tuscany that hasn’t
been going on for twelve generations except, in our modern times,
to say “organic” requires certification.
And Villa Graziella has that. The
estate has been certified organic and sustainable since 1997 by the ICEA
(Italian Environmental & Ethical Certification Institute) and has earned re-certification
with every vintage since.
Demographics tell us it is the millennials
that care most about this. But it’s safe to assume that everyone cares
about how the wine works at the kitchen table (or dining room). And I found it works in both environments,
not to mention picnic tables and tables at the beach. Being labeled as Rosso” (The literal translation of “Rosso di Toscana” is “red [wine] from Tuscany”), it is assumed by many to mean “common” or
somehow lesser in quality. Add in that “IGT”
is an acronym for indicazione
geografica tipica, which rendered into English, means “typical geographic
indication” and one might understand how others could take that all together to
mean the wine is not superior. But let’s
remember that “IGT” is also how the “Super Tuscans” were originally and still are
classified due to regulation limiting permitted grapes used in their blending. This rosso is from Tuscany, but the only
common thing about it is its price. In terms of price to value, this rosso
is definitely superior.
Point being you may find this wine a surprise and deliciously
so regardless of whatever demographic you find yourself within. I grew up with simple rosso wine made
by Italian neighbors. But this wine was not that. No rough edges. Integration was seamless. The inclusion of 5% Canaiolo and Colorino
(both permitted in the Chianti DOGC and included in the wines of Amarone della Valpolicella
for example) add color and some tannin to firm up the wine’s structure, while
the Canaiolo contributes softness to the finished blend. Nonetheless, this is
Tuscan wine and the blend is comprised of 95% Sangiovese (specifically
Sangiovese Piccolo).
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| Not The Best Pairing But A Good Example Of How Well The Wine Works With Food |
The juice is aged seven months in temperature controlled
stainless steel tanks to preserve its aromatics and freshness, making it a
perfect summer red. And Sangiovese is a high acid grape making it food-friendly
by nature. Perfect for charcuterie and
other casual enjoyments. But I was using whatever was on hand and so made a
pizza with whatever ingredients were left over from a previous meal. Worse, the pizza was not in the style of Southern
or even Central Italy: In fact, even the crust was made from almond “flour”
(horrors!). I topped the crust with
buffalo mozzarella, basil pesto, dabs of goat cheese and grated Fontina and
Parmesan Reggiano. As I said, I was
using what I had on hand and had I any olives, they would have been
included. Despite having no red sauce,
the wine did well with this simple meal.
Simple but well-crafted healthy food paired with organic wine. While the meal wouldn’t win any culinary
stars, the wine elevated the meal. And
that, really, is the point of wine made by Villa Graziella: wine that tastes
better with food. Food that taste better with wine.
So what to expect upon opening a bottle of this wine? Personally, I’d expect to either decant it or
allow it to breath for some time allowing the wine to open up and display its
aromatics. Enjoy its light garnet color
in the glass, tipping you off to this wine being an enjoyable refresher and one
benefiting from being slightly chilled. You’ll be rewarded with notes of black
cherry and blackberry as in a compote. Cranberry
and juicy plum tempt the senses and the perfume finishes with a suggestion of
anise. On the palate, I enjoyed a
seamless meld of red fruit led by cherry.
The wine is medium bodied with vibrant – but not biting – acidity which
is the key needed to unlock the flavors of food.
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| A Perfect Pairing |
Consider enjoying this wine as an alternative to Beaujolais
and Pinot Noir. From the patio to the
picnic table, slightly chilled, you’ll find this wine a welcome accompaniment
with casual plates. After tasting it, I
later paired it with a charcuterie and it was perfect outdoors at a picnic
table lakeside. With barbecue baby back
ribs? Delicious!
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| BBQ Ribs. Another Perfect Pairing, But Let Your Imagination Guide You. |
Taste this wine and taste the simpler times of, perhaps, your
yesterdays, your lineage, or, perhaps, just a rediscovery of what wine was
meant to be and can be again - for you
Salute!
………….. Jim
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palate).
TECH SPECS:
Appellation: Chianti Colli Fiorentini di
Montspertoli, Provence: Florence
Producer: Luca Nesi
Wine
Make/Enologist:Fabio Signorini
Altitude: 300 meters (984.25 ft)
above sea level
Exposure: SE
Soil: Calcareous
Training: Spurred cordon w/small
amount Guyot vine training
Blend: 90% Sangiovese
Piccolo, 5% Canailo, 5% Colorini
Vine Age: 1985
Density: 4000-5000 vines per
hecatare (9884-12,355 Acres)
TA: 3.6
pH: 5.95
ALC: 14%
Vinification: 12-15 days maceration of hand
selected grapes at controlled temp of 24-26C (75-79 F) with soft extraction and
frequent punch downs.
Aging: 7 months 18-20C (65-68F)
Temperature controlled stainless
Vineyard
Practice: Organic: Cover cropping
between rows with beet root, broad beans, lentils, mustard, rye grass, sweet
peas, cow pies and sheep dung compost.
Farming Since: 1797, Family Managed
ARP: <$13. U.S.
Note: The almonds referred too (skinless Marcona) are roasted in the organic olive oil produced in Montespertoli but the olives (Marcona) are grown in Spain.
Note: The almonds referred too (skinless Marcona) are roasted in the organic olive oil produced in Montespertoli but the olives (Marcona) are grown in Spain.
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