“All
palates are personal and correct for the people owning them.” …. James
McMillan
“Tasting notes are as
personal as a Selective Service Induction Notice.” … James McMillan
The
quotes above should be a good clue as to what I think of tasting notes. But perhaps I can add some value in your
search for wines to pair with food, because “therein lies all the difference.”
While, in the minds of many, Chianti is “birds of a feather”, it is not
so. For those who have read my recent post
about Villa Graziella, you know that Villa Graziella is a 12th
generation farm and has been certified organic since 1979. If you haven’t read that post, may I suggest
you go back to it to see a review of Villa Graziella’s 2018 “Rosso Toscano” where
those details are disclosed more fully?
https://www.winemizer.net/2019/07/villa-graziella-rosso-toscano-igt-2018.html
Let’s
here deal instead with differences in Italian regulations regarding use of the
term “Riserva”. In the U.S., the term “Reserve” is unattached to any legal
definition or standard of adherence.
Throughout my travels in the U.S., “Reserva” or “Reserve” may mean
a wine that was longer aged. It may mean a wine made from their best
grapes, or a larger portion of the grapes being from their best vineyard. It might mean longer aging or even
their best barrels being used. In every winery I visited, it did mean
something, but what? Well, that was up
to the winery. Point being, it is not legally defined in the U.S.
In Italy. It means aging.
Whether
that is good or bad is up to you.
Personally, I think it’s good because, as a consumer, you’re better
prepared to expect what to taste when you do taste the bottle’s contents and
that, ultimately, is the why and how of wine becomes and remains personal to
your palate. But there needs to be a
second caveat before we progress.
Current releases of these two wines are from different vintages and it
will always be so because of the requirements needed to meet Riserva
labeling. Current releases of Villa Graziella’s Chianti DOCG are from its 2017
vintage while their Riserva is from the 2015 vintage. 2015 was rated 95 (as
a vintage year) by Wine Spectator. 2017 remains, as yet, unrated). Yes, Virginia, “old world” wines are looked
at differently.
One
of the ways these wines are looked at differently is how they pair with food.
This is not just common with “old world” reds but “old world” whites also.
Today, lets just look at these two reds because, especially with “old world”
Italian wine, it’s all about acidity and food.
CHIANTI DOCG 2017
 |
| Beef Shanks With Root Vegetables? I'll Go With The Reserva. |
I
tasted each of these wines over three days (wines being vacuumed pumped and
cool stored). On the nose: Cherry, black plum, raspberry; a note of freshly
sliced green bell pepper. It held up
remarkably well through day two and three and by the third day offered a slight
note of tomato leaf. Tart cherry was
dominant on the palate. Overall, this non-reserva was zippier and
brighter than the Riserva (think Crianza, Reserva & Gran Reserva as
with Spanish wines) and offered bright notes of raspberry and allspice. In the glass, it displayed a very thin watery
rim on its edge (compared to the riserva, which had no such rim). By the
second day, I enjoyed some dried black plum on the finish and, on the third,
notes of black olive.
You
don’t need food pairing suggestions from me: Your taste buds already are
craving barbecue ribs, roast chicken with rosemary, roasted vegetables made on
the grill, and – of course – pizza and pasta with red sauce. But also, so much more – let your imagination
swirl and enjoy (or learn from) the experience.
To
appreciate the difference aging makes, let’s start with the DOCG Chianti. The
juice from the Sangiovese spends five months in temperature controlled
stainless steel tanks, then four months in 1,000-liter French oak barrels. The Cab and Colorino are aged in new French
oak barriques for nine months. The three varietals are then blended and
finished in stainless for two additional months. The steel, at cool temperature, preserves freshness
and aromatics. The oak adds, of course, some tannins but also smooths all the
notes together through the “angel’s share” and helps balance all the
components.
 |
| Brisket? For me, That's Reserva Again. |
Contrast
that against the 2015 CHIANTI RESERVA
The
Sangiovese begins with six months in steel and then another 18 months in French
oak. The Cabernet is kept aside awaiting blending by spending two years in
French oak and then, after being blended, spends another
three months in barrel married to the Sangiovese. Reserva wines, under
Italian law, require a minimum of two years aging.
There
are some differences in the blend also. The DOCG is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 5% Colorino. The Reserva
is a straight up 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose of the reserva (for me) was
more restrained, but I noted hints of cinnamon and balsamic (fir?) and violet.
It offered some earthy notes also. The taste is deeper, dryer - especially
until mid-palate when blackberry and black licorice announce themselves toward
the finish. The color is darker and the
wine deeper in dark notes than the non-reserva, through it is still
rounded. Some grip (not unpleasant) was
evident after the first day.
The non-reserva (for
me) struck me as being deep with rich fruit, led with blackberry (as in farm stand mini-crates), and - with air - developed notes of raspberry. Nonetheless, the wine (either) is dry and while fruit is rich and deep, it is not forward but, instead, reserved: luring, suggestive, tempting: classic "old world". The reserva is this, but deeper and more dry. Aerate or decant either to allow the wine to
open and gift you with its aromatics.
Expect some sediment with the reserva, which is natural. You can strain
this out toward the bottle’s bottom when pouring if such is a problem.
 |
| Ribs, Barbecue Sauced? Time For The DOCG Though The Rosso Would Work Well Too. |
With the reserva, consider
pairing with short ribs (especially bison with a tomato sauce reduction),
grilled lamb with rosemary and garlic, pecorino cheese and roasted chestnuts.
I’ve enjoyed this wine with beef shanks and roasted root vegetables, brisket
and prime rib; all of which begs the question – which wine is better?
 |
| Steak Tips With Mushrooms? Pass The DOCG, Please. |
.............. Jim
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appropriate to your individual and unique palate).
MINI TECH SPECS:
CHIANTI DOCG
TA: 5.45
pH: 3.48
ALC: 14%
CHIANTI DOCG RISERVA
TA: 4.99
pH: 3.56
ALC: 14
All grapes used for either offering are certified
organic. Vines (for either) grow at an altitude of 300 meters (984.25 ft) above
sea level. Soil (for either) is
calcareous. Exposure is SE (except
Cabernet Sauvignon, which is NW).
Harvesting is by hand.
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