Amici e vini sono meglio vecchi. (Old wine and friends improve
with age)… An Italian proverb.
Trying new wines can be “the best of times” or “the worst of times.” For a dedicated aficionado of indigenous grapes and the wine that results from their vinification, each bottle is fun and layers on another experience. But for casual enjoyers - those comfortable within their known taste zone – tasting a purchased bottle of wine made from a never-heard-of grape is entered into more cautiously. In real world speak, that means the bottle most often goes untried. Pity. A door remains closed that may have opened delights.
From
my outlook, tasting wines made from grapes unknown is always a thrilling and
mind opening experience but I respect that everyone’s palate is both personal
and correct for the person possessing it.
Perhaps I can add value to this blog by describing some of these grapes
and lead you down the road that as Robert Frost said was the less travelled
because, indeed, it may make all the difference.
But
add it considerably in advance of when you plan to enjoy it. Referring to the quote above, Sagrantino
improves with age. In its youth, tannins
are concentrated. It’s not uncommon for Sagrantino to open beautifully at eight
years of age and improve even further during the next five years. As Cabernet
Sauvignon can be bold, powerful, concentrated, masculine and age- worthy so can
Sagrantino be. Fortunately, for us,
Colpetrone (the producer) makes Sagrantino in a more international style,
meaning you can enjoy it earlier; not meaning the wine made from Sagrantino by
Colpetrone has sacrificed its typicity.
Even
so, Colpetrone’s Sagrantino will reward you for patience. With time in the
bottle, polymerization binds pigmented tannins into larger particles that will
collect as sediment and the juice softens.
In the U.S., winemakers are sensitive to consumers thinking anything but
the clearest wine must be a fault. Much of what is produced here has been
filtered and fined to such clarity and, being drunk young, has become what many
people take as a standard. Problem is,
it is the tartrates and phenolics in wines that develop the aromatic compounds
that form bouquet, build taste and develop the varietal’s character.
This
2009, ten years from vintage, still benefited from air. Decant for an hour or enjoy the next day
after opening. Full bodied, like a
Cabernet Sauvignon, but not fruit forward, it exemplifies “old world” style in
fruit being present but subdued as part of a seamless composition. Tertiary
notes of chocolate and smoke add complexity.
Its nose offers earth but lifted by lavender. Brambled berries
reintroduce the forest element. Sour
cherry and dried cranberry on the palate, some balsamic and dried strawberry
linger into a long finish accompanied by a hint of leather and nutmeg. Fruit becomes
more pronounced the second day with lots of blackberry, black raspberry and
black cherry joined by strawberry (jam) on the nose. The wine is less edgy and its tannins softened. Strawberry (jam) also becomes more evident on
the palate. But either day, the wine’s acidity provides a somewhat tangy finish
making it also food friendly.
Keep
a few bottles aside. Taste them along
the way and enjoy the changes within each bottle. Fire up the grill on a cool, summer night and
pair this wine with grilled meats and game. Braised meats can warm up the kitchen in the
cooler months and Sagrantino from Montefalco will pair nicely then also. Aged cheeses do well as will red-sauced pasta
and pizza. If you’re lucky enough to
have a black truffle on hand, enjoy this wine’s earthiness against some
crumbled truffle on the pasta. Thin
sliced Italian beef with green peppers on an Italian roll may look less worthy
than a magazine photo but will go together nicely regardless.
Salute!
………………
Jim
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appropriate to your individual and unique palate).
ETC:
The Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
requires 100% Sagrantino grapes be used, with 37 months aging before
release, of which at least 12 months are in oak barrels and 4 months in bottle. Colpetrone ages its Sagrantino 12 months in
oak barrique and another 26 months (minimum) in bottle before release. The
grape is noted for its thick skin which naturally develops tannin.
ALC: 14.5%
Imported by: Vias Imports, Ltd., NY, NY.
ARP: $23.
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