SCHARFFENBERGER NV “BRUT EXCELLENCE” SPARKLING WINE

“Some sparkling wines are Champagne without the geography…. or the price tag.” …… James McMillan

At the risk of being taken for a snob, I’ll admit to preferring French Campaign – or something intended to be entirely different (like Prosecco).  There are exceptions, of course, and I’ve written about some domestically made sparklers (on my Facebook page [like “Etoile” Brut from Domaine Chandon] and on this blog (see https://www.winemizer.net/2018/04/domaine-chandon-etoile-brut-sparkling.html)].  Now it’s time to mention another: Scharffenberger Cellars' “Brut Excellence”.  

Scharffenberger began in 1981 in the village of Philo in the heart of California’s Anderson Valley. Only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, the area benefits from the region’s noted sunshine moderated by the cooling fog coming into this protected valley from the coast. 

It is where, on their 120-acre vineyards, Scharffenberger grows the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes used in making their Brut Excellence. ¹   The location itself explains the “French Connection” in California with French Domaines (Moet & Chandon, Mumm, Roederer and others) buying land in California and making Sparkling Wine within the U.S., or working in partnership with established wineries.  Under these and other labels (with differences noted on them) you may choose to purchase the product made in California or France.  Each will be made according to Champagne standards.

Scharffenberger has no “French Connection” I’m aware of though I doubt Gene Hackman would refuse a glass.  It is, however, made in the methode traditionelle (traditional method), or methode champenoise (Champagne method) meaning fermented twice in bottle.  You may see terms like metodo classico on sparkling wines from Italy, Cava from Spain or even Cremant (Also from France but not made within the designated Champagne region).  Ageing requirements may differ, but be assured it is made in the twice-fermented-within-the-bottle style.  

And while neither the name Scharffenberger nor the winemaker’s names (previously Tex Sawyer, now Jeffrey Jindra) bear much French resemblance, this sparkling wine is classically made and offers very good value.  “Creamy and lively, with festive apple and spice flavors,” says Wine Spectator.  One of the Top 100 Wines (of 2013) per the San Francisco Chronicle. A wine that’s remarkable for the money, says me.

On the nose, aroma of green apple and kiwi bathed in lactic acid. There’s a “sour” gooseberry-like note that is difficult for me to narrow down more precisely but I found it very pleasant. Regardless, a note of plum fruit and Rainier cherry balances this perfectly. On the palate, I loved the yeasty introduction of brioche with lemon (another taster said “lemon curd”). My opinion? The “curd” reference is more apt to the wine’s creamy texture from the juice resting on its lees for almost two years and the wine undergoing 100% malolactic fermentation.

The wine is dry (Brut, my favorite) and complex with notes too of almond and lychee nut. Fine, persistent bubbles. Other tasters said they enjoyed flavors of Bartlett pear, fig and mandarin orange. (I get the pear now that they mentioned it). Either way, at about $17, this sparkler screams out value. About two-thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay from their own vineyards and others nearby¹ in cool growing Mendocino County (Anderson Valley) California. (Another reviewer reversed this percentage². I’m going with the information provided by the winery itself as to the percentage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).

If you find many sparkling wines (or Champagne) too acidic and crisp, while Scharffenberger’s Brut does provide a crisp clean finish, it is rounded and creamy with vanilla notes and smoothed in its texture with surprising body.  It’s fresh, yet richer and deeper (yet with subdued fruit flavors) than other wines similarly priced. I found it lacking in nothing and with excellent, spot-on balance.

I tasted the wine without pairing it, but would suggest it is a (if not the) perfect match for trout amandine. Consider also, breast of chicken in a creamy white sauce, stuffed mushrooms or better yet deviled eggs topped with caviar/roe for the saltiness. 

Cheers!

………………. Jim

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ETC:

Scharffenberger Cellars                      http://scharffenbergercellars.com/index.html

1)      Scharffenberger Cellars also has long-term contracts with select vineyards within greater Mendocino Country and from whom they may source grapes. The same practice is used in Champagne.

2)      Another reviewer stated the blend as two-thirds Chardonnay and one third Pinot Noir. My source for the blend is from the winemaker’s notes: “The wine is approximately two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay.”

Appellation:                                         Mendocino County

Fermentation:                                      Twice in bottle

                                                            100% Malolactic

Aging:                                                 On Lees, Average 2 Years

pH:                                                      3.27

ALC:                                                   12%

Exclusively represented by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA 

Ratings:                                              91 Points Wine Enthusiast,  
                                                           90 Wine & Spirits Magazine

FITZ-RITTER RIESLING SEKT

"Making wine is like having children; you love them all, but boy, are they different." --- Bunny Finkelstein (co-owner of Judd’s Hill Winery)

Despite that I’m getting on in years, I still enjoy Sekt occasionally.   Holster that thought cowboy!  Sekt is sparkling wine from Germany.  And Germany follows only France and Italy in producing sparkling wine.  That puts Germany ahead of Spain (4^th) and even the U.S. (6^th).   In fact, they drink a lot of Sekt in Germany and you may want to try it too – especially lake side or on a picnic. Or watching a sunset from your patio or deck at day’s end.  This bottle from Weingut Fitz-Ritter is 100% Riesling from the Pfalz region in southwest Germany.  Imported by Winesellers Ltd. Importing & Marketing, I found it at Binny’s for under $17.  Its sweetness level is “Extra Troken” (meaning dry) though its initial taste of sweet red apple presents a hint of residual sugar on the palate.  This is balanced by the crisp acidity that makes the Riesling wines of Germany so well regarded worldwide. 

Despite too that this sparkling wine is made in the traditional method (second fermentation in bottle, aged on the lees) I recommend it especially for those finding Champagne and other wines of sparkling type that are classically made (Cava, Methode Champonoise, Metodo Classico, Cremant, etc.) too “yeasty”.  The autolysis (dead yeast cells in contact with the wine after fermentation while aging) is what makes my bell ring, but all palates are personal and some are soured by a strong taste of brioche, toast or bread dough.

Because the Riesling grapes for this wine are all old vine and from the sunny micro-climate of Middle-Haardt in Pfalz, it is the fruit of ripe Riesling that powers through.   Some have referred to a “slightly toasty (note) on the nose,” though I found the aromas all bright and fresh and chalky.  Others also refer to a palate offering pineapple and tangerine.  Still others: green apple, lime and orange with aromas of lychee, pear and coconut.  So be it. Again all palates are personal. An Alsatian Gewürztraminer defines lychee for me.  And for me, this Sekt was red ripe apple:  A simple yet pleasurable experience.  The Phalz (lying to the West of the Rhine, in the south, sunny and warm) has been known for producing inexpensive wines.  Its reputation does not carry the weight of the Mosel or the Rheingau.  Yet its simplicity is its charm.  An uncomplicated, easy-drinking bubbly with a good mousse, fine bubbles and a clean taste.  If there’s something in experiencing that pleasure that isn’t a good thing, I haven’t found it.

The Fitz-Ritter family has been making wine since 1785. And the estate belongs to the “Verband Deutscher Pradikats” (VDP) founded in 1910 and whose members are dedicated to organic, sustainable farming.

Prost!

…………….. Jim

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ANNA CODORNIU, MOM, and THE HERRINGTON INN & SPA

“Life began with waking up and loving my mother’s face.” —George Eliot

Loving mom comes easy.  The bond is formed at birth and gets nurtured over years of dependency.  Appreciation is different.  It takes time.  Genuine appreciation, after all, requires awareness of things and people and their needs outside our self.  Sometimes decades later, finally removed from being aware of only our own wants,  can we then truly appreciate the sacrifices “mom” made. Seems hardly sufficient that “mom” gets only one day a year then, doesn’t it?   

Recently, throughout Chicago-land, several restaurants teamed up with Anna de Codorniu (Spain’s bestselling sparkling wine) to promote Mother’s Day each weekend in May with special brunch menus.  I’ve been a fan of Anna deCodorniu “Cava” (what sparkling wine from Spain is called) for years. The Herrington Inn & Spa in Geneva, Illinois features a beautifully appointed dining room with lovely views of their patio and garden, a talented chef and a gracious staff that elevates the experience into the special occasion mom deserves.

O.K. maybe I’m not all that removed from my own wants.  I did say Anna de Codorniu after all. Let me explain.  As a wine critic who has had some training and grew up with wine, I’ve enjoyed numerous sparkling wines. What’s so special about Anna Codorniu?  It’s not, for example, the brand Frank Sinatra routinely ordered. Nor is it the trendy sparkler of famous rap singers visiting Las Vegas. But I’ve never believed that price was a determinant of quality.  In fact, I’ve always been more concerned with value received in exchange for money spent.  And then, there’s that thing about Anna de Codorniu being the bestselling wine of its type in Spain, where it happens to me made.  And the Anna legacy goes back to 1551. Could be those people know a thing or two about sparkling wine.

To start:  Anna’s non-vintage Brut (Blanc de Blancs) is 70%

The Herrington's Beautiful
Dining Room

Chardonnay and 30% Parellada (an indigenous grape used in making high quality Cava, it contributes a green apple and citrus bouquet and makes for balanced wines with a crisp finish).  Anna, by the way, was the first Cava to incorporate Chardonnay into its coupage. In fact, Anna’s descendant, Josep Raventos, was the first to master the “Methode Traditionelle” of making sparkling wine in Spain. Methode Traditionelle means the wine is made in the traditional method, i.e. fermented twice in bottle.  Spain’s Regulatory Board requires all Cava be aged a minimum of nine months; “Reserva” 15 months (many are aged longer).  Everyone will tell you that white sparkling wine of this type is great with oysters, and it is. It’s great with all kinds of seafood and shellfish.  And while I enjoy oysters, I know they’re not at the top of every mom’s “I want” list.  So may I suggest a Mimosa for mom?  Try piercing three grapes on a pick and then freezing them.  Then fill a glass one-third with Anna De Codorniu, add the frozen grapes and top the glass with orange juice.  I also find this refreshing and crisp wine pairs well with so many appetizers, most any white fish, fruit desserts (such as honeydew melon carpaccio) and sushi-sashimi.  O.K., I’ll bring it down a notch.  Try pairing this sparkling wine with potato chips and your favorite movie. Seriously, the wine works well against salt. You’ll thank me.

Enjoyed by itself outdoors (on your deck or patio) and in the graceful, breezy air of summer, you’ll be rewarded with aroma of sea shells, dried pineapple with persistent notes of citrus and a hint of chalk in a sparkling wine pale lemon in color with a golden hue.

Anna also makes a Brut Rose, 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay.  The wine has a delicate cherry color with strawberry tones; aroma of fresh strawberry and cherry with hints of green apple.  Grapes for both wines come from the Cava-Penedes region in northeast Spain, a “Denominacion de Origen”, or D.O., like an AOC, DOCG, or our own AVA designated area of origin).

Like most dry, sparkling wines, both these finish with an alcohol content of 11.5% to 12%. Easy drinking, light, fresh wines that won’t hurt mom and you’ll enjoy too. I’ve enjoyed the Rose paired with salmon. The crisp finish of Anna Rose cleanses the palate from the healthy Omega-3 fat of salmon and works surprising well with some lamb and pork dishes also.

But what works especially well with either Anna is the price.  ARP is under $15! (Expect to pay more at restaurants and tasting rooms: they have expenses too).  When I referred earlier to “value received in exchange for money spent” Anna matched that requirement perfectly.  It’s a Wine Mizer recommendation and commonly available at many retail outlets.  Mom used to say, “A king’s taste and a peasant’s pocket book.”  I think she would be proud.  

JUST A FEW OF THE MANY APPETIZERS I'VE ENJOYED WITH ANNA

As with all sparkling wines, please remember to chill the wine thoroughly before opening. All sparkling wine is corked under pressure.  Untwist, but retain the cage, cover with a towel, twist the bottle while holding on to the cork (and keep its direction pointed away from you or your guests).  To enhance the enjoyment of the Rose, you may want to allow it to warm on the counter for 5 minutes (after opening) before serving.    

It’s said that wine makes any meal better and I agree. But some meals are at their best when you don’t have to prepare them.  Toward that end, I’ll be revisiting The Herrington Inn restaurant in Geneva. In addition to its lovely surroundings, gracious old-world ambiance and creatively interpreted classics that delight the palate, the staff at the Herrington all seem gifted with ESP. Needs seem to be anticipated before you become aware of them yourself.  Service is attentive without being intrusive. Worse – the plating is beautiful, and the meal itself so much better than  I could have done!  Fortunately, I had some Anna de Codorniu to comfort me in my shame. As I said, genuine appreciation takes time, and enjoying the brunch at The Herrington made me appreciate the difference between being an accomplished home cook and a professional chef.  The Herrington Inn and Anna Codorniu – a great partnership!  Bring mom there next May, but check them out yourself in the meantime.  

Salud!

…………….. Jim

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PAUL MAS SPARKLING WINES, LANGUEDOC

“The priest has just baptized you a Christian with water; and I baptize you a Frenchman, daring child, with a dewdrop of champagne on your lips.” - Paul Claudel, French author and poet

Ask a friend to name a wine region in France and, if it’s near the New Year, you’re likely to get the response “Champagne.”  If he has a bulge from the money in his wallet on the inside pocket of his jacket, he might refer to a Premiere Crus Chateau in the Medoc, or perhaps Burgundy.  If she spent time in France, perhaps she would say “The Loire.”  Or, with the craze of Rose wines still smoldering from the summer’s heat, she might say “The Provence”.  But if he or she is a fellow “Mizer,” she would  say the Languedoc.  “Mizers” don’t just know value.  They know quality wine at value prices, and the Languedoc has been offering both in the same bottles for years.  Adding to the mystery of this underappreciated region is that the Laqnguedoc does not produce only white wine, or red wine, or only sparkling wine – but produces delicious wines at value across the spectrum. Too bad there are not more “Mizers.”  Then again, maybe that’s good for us because a sudden increase in demand could result in price increases. 

I enjoyed tasting the wines of Jean-Claude Mas, vineyard owner and winemaker in France’s Languedoc region. Despite being a promoter of Languedoc wines for years, tasting some Paul Mas’ wines (those sent me for review and later at a tasting in Chicago) I was reassured that I have been on a good mission over the years promoting these wines. 

Today, we’ll talk about what the French themselves so love: Sparking Wine. 

Cote Mas Cremant de Limoux NV Brut St. Hilaire. A sparkling wine of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir and 10% Mauzac.  Grapes are fermented in stainless steel, keeping fruit fresh. But this is classic sparkling wine so, of course,  

a second fermentation takes place in the bottle.  It cannot be called Champagne because it is not made within the district of Champagne.  But neither is Cremant d’Alsace (another area within France), or anywhere else whether in France or not. So trust your impression to your own taste buds. I found this sparkling wine to be one of the most enjoyable I’ve tasted in years. Pale straw in the glass with just the slightest tinge of rose, I enjoyed an aromatic hint of butterscotch that evolved into notes of fresh baked brioche and wet stone. The mousse (bubbles) were fine and persistent and contributed to the wine’s rich, creamy texture in the mouth. But it all comes to taste eventually and here this wine scores top rankings also:  Almond, fresh picked strawberry, white flowers and a hint of unripe white peach. I continued tasting the next day and was delighted with how the wine continued to evolve: the nose developed candied white peach and notes of fresh peeled orange along with fresh baked sour dough bread with flavors of butterscotched lemon drops as the wine warmed within the glass.

Cote Mas Cremant de Limoux Rose Brut NV St. Hilaire.   A Brut Rose (70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir).  Perhaps I was won over by Chardonnay being dominant in the blend (I usually don’t get so excited by rose.  It’s just a personal preference thing, not a judgement).   But even going in with the expectation that I wouldn’t like it, I did!  Bright and zesty with a delightful flavor of strawberry in an amazingly long finish.  Aromas of peach and apricot delight the nose before flavors reward taste buds.  This is not a shorter description due to my not liking the wine. As with the non-rose, it is made in the traditional Methode Champenoise and with the second fermentation, in the bottle, also taking three weeks.  Au contrair. Consider it an endorsement knowing how I feel about roses and not doing a literal “blind tasting.”  That I liked this wine so much surprised me. 

Since taking charge in 2000 of the centuries-old Domaines Paul Mas, Jean-Claude Mas has committed himself to producing only superior wines from premium quality grapes.  Judging by this tasting, I’d say he has succeeded on both counts.  That these wines have a suggested retail price of under $20 impresses me even more.  Truth be told, I’ve had fun with these sparkling wines and enjoyed them more than I have with some pricier Champagnes from Reims, France.  With the holidays approaching, why not welcome them with a sparkling wine you’ll actually enjoy tasting when your toast?     

Sante!

……………… Jim

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CREMANT d’ ALSACE

“The feeling of friendship is like that of being comfortably filled with roast beef; love, like being enlivened with champagne.”  .... Samuel Johnson

It’s just my hunch, but I’m betting that we consume less “Champagne” per capita in the U.S. than most European countries. And here’s my second hunch: I’m also guessing that most of us first chill the “Champagne,” then open it right out of the fridge,  giggle at the pop of the cork and then most of us pour it into a glass and – while it’s still foaming – lift the glass and make a toast.  We view champagne as befitting special occasions. That’s what we've been told and what we have been sold. But I don’t think we much like it. Not really. And that’s too bad.

And here’s my last hunch: the reason we don’t like it is because of the chilling-popping-pouring-drinking scenario. Whether it’s Champagne, sparking wine, Cava or Cremant d’Alsace, bubbly is wine. And there are enough styles within that family of bubblies to make them much more enjoyable if we just treat them as such.

HERE’S HOW

First, most bubblies are kept too cold. That’s OK. If it wasn't, your refrigerator would not be a safe place to store your food. But sparkling wine really is best appreciated at 45 (F) degrees, much warmer than your refrigerator setting.  So just take the wine out and let it sit a while. Second, open the bottle (aside from not using a corkscrew) as your would other fine wine – be it true Champagne, or a sparkling wine from any country made in the traditional method such as Crement d’ Alsace, or labeled as Metodo Classico from Italy. By that, I mean let it breathe a while.  Doing this will allow the aroma and flavors to develop. Use an appropriate glass (I prefer the flute) but then allow the wine to sit in the glass.  Enjoy the color.  Look at the bubbles (mousse), and allow them to settle a bit before consuming. The mousse provides a texture and that’s enjoyable. But all that aggressive fizzing when it’s first poured into the glass interferes with TASTING the wine.

Some time ago, I was invited to participate in tasting four sparkling wines from France’s Alsace region. Since Alsace is not within the boundaries of the region of Champagne, these bubblies cannot properly be labeled Champagne, so they are referred to as Cremant d’Alsace (roughly “sparkling wine of Alsace”).  Credit goes to France for practicing what they preach. And bargains go to everyone because these wines are traditionally made (twice fermented) and offer excellence in taste but also terrific value price wise.

The four Cremants I tasted were:

1.       Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Blanc de Blanc Brut, imported by Pasternak Wine Imports

2.       Gustave Lorentz Cremant d’Alsace Brut, imported by Quintessential

3.       Dopff & Irion Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rose

4.       Charles Baur Cremant d’Alsce Brut Rose, imported by Grape News Importing

The first thing I noticed was that, for each wine, the corks removed easily and produced only a soft “pop” – a sign of quality.  Lucien Albrecht is a blend of 80% Pinot Auxerrois (a cross of Gouais Blanc & Pinot Noir), 10% Pinot Blanc and 10% Chardonnay. In the glass, it is beautiful and classic with its pale straw color.  The nose offers yeasty, fresh baked bread and is floral and elegant. The mousse (bubbles) are small – another sign of quality – and the mouthfeel is silky and glycerol.  There was taste of crisp apple and a hint of almond with honeydew melon in the back taste as the wine warmed. The finish was elegant, the mouthfeel creamy. I enjoyed immensely the wine’s toasty, autolytic character. O.K., full disclosure here: I’m a “sucker” for Blanc de Blancs, but at retail prices between $16 and $23, this sparkling wine tastes much higher than it is priced.

On to Gustave Lorentz.  The wine is a blend of 33% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Blanc and 33% Pinot Noir. As with the other Cremants d’Alsace, it is made according to the “Method Champenoise” (traditional method with the second fermentation in bottle). Aging is done “sur lattes” with daily bottle rotation in order for the yeast deposit to accumulate in the neck of the bottle for disgorgement. As with all “Methode Champenoise,” that’s a lot of work and one wonders how it can be retailed for a SRP of $25. But who am I to argue?  The wine offers a seductive floral nose and a chalky whisper of minerality. It presents a citrusy taste of lemon-lime which I hadn’t expected but enjoyed and a bright finish that softened somewhat yet remained crisp with citrus.

The color of Dopff & Irion was pale rose-amber and absolutely beautiful in the glass. Wisps of strawberry were present in the clean and very light nose of this 100% Pinot Noir wine. The mousse was exceptionally long lasting and brought tastes of faint strawberry and white chocolate to the palette. The finish offered candied strawberry and the mid palette was (for me) a touch sweet which would be a plus for those preferring something less austere than a Blanc de Blanc Brut.  Since that isn’t me, I swirled the wine (heretically, I know) in the glass and preferred the result of that toning down the perceived sweetness.

Charles Baur, also 100% Pinot Noir, it finished the tasting and although I lean to the Chardonnays, I found this wine captivating and was taken in by its layers of flavor. At an ARP of $18, I was also taken in by its thriftiness. The wine is a pale, muted pink in the glass. Though its floral noise is touted, I wasn’t able to appreciate it until the wine got some air. Fortunately, it was last in the tasting and as things progressed, that’s exactly what developed.  Its nose was enticing. I tasted tart rose petal and bitter orange and, as the wine aired even more, strawberry.  Layers of flavor indeed!  The taste sits on the mid palette and develop a long finish.  A great summertime party wine. 

 Cremant d’Alsace offers great quality and value and enough variety to suit most every taste.  They are wonderful with a variety of foods offering cleansing and crisp finishes as they do. If your experience with “sparkling wine” has been of the “popping-pouring-drinking” scenario, I’m not surprised you limit (if you do) that experience to celebrations. May I suggest you celebrate instead the joie de vin  (joy of wine)? Take your time; sip, savor and enjoy!

Sante!

…………………. Jim

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FERRARI (Metodo Classico) SPARKLING WINES

“In Success you deserve it and in defeat, you need it."………… Winston Churchill on Champaign

"I drink Champagne when I win, to celebrate… And I drink Champagne when I lose, to console myself."
Napoleon Bonaparte

Americans are drinking more sparkling wine.  The Wine Institute’s records show total sales of Sparkling Wine and Champaign have increased each year since 2000. Wine Spectator (December 2011) reported that “total consumption of sparkling wine in the United States will approach 15 million cases by the end of the year.”  Neither gives a reason for this, but I suspect it is because we are finally getting comfortable with the fact that sparkling wine is wine.  So although 40 percent of all sparkling wine is still sold during the holiday season, the majority of sparkling wine being enjoyed is with meals and other ordinary occasions during non holiday times.

Recently I sampled Ferrari Brut and a 2006 Vintage Ferrari “Perle.”  These are Italian sparkling wines made in the classic French method. When buying a product labeled as a sparkling wine, it’s worth noting that even one made in France outside of the district of Champaign is technically a sparkling wine because only those made within the district of Champaign can be labeled as such. It’s also worth remembering that all sparkling wines are not made via the same process.  Simply put, wines made metodo classico (or what the French would label as methode champenoise) undergo a second fermentation in the bottle. The wines are aged and rest on their lees. This is the more expensive and labor intensive process (as opposed to the charmat method in which fermentation occurs in large tanks) that results in the wine developing more complexity, longer lasting and smaller bubbles (mousse) and contributes to the wine’s grace notes.     

Ferrari was founded by Giulio Ferari in 1902 after he studied this classic method of wine making in France, earned a winemaking degree and worked in wineries. He returned to Italy and planted Chardonnay grapes for his metodo classico sparkling wine.  While some take it for granted today that Chardonnay is the grape for sparkling wine and Champaign, Ferari was the first to do this in Italy. His wines carry the D.O.C. appellation (AOC in France or akin to the AVA in the United States) applied to wines specifically from the Trento area within the Trentino-Alto Adige in far northern Italy (see map). Grapes used by Ferrari are grown on hillsides at 985 – 2300 feet in this alpine region that shares its latitude with Burgundy. Surprisingly, temperatures can get very high this far north, so the higher elevations assure longer hang time. Grapes mature more slowly and ripen evenly. “All the better to drink you my dear.”

I should mention that Ferrari sold the winery in 1952 to Bruno Lunelli, a friend and local merchant, and today Ferrari is still (3^rd generation) a family run winery. Not having changed the winery’s name, Lunelli was and is more concerned with the wine than the fame.  It seems he made the right decision. Ferrari’s Brut is the top selling metodo classic brut in Italy. That has to count for something, so let’s talk about the wine.

In the glass, Ferrari’s Brut is straw-yellow. Bubbles are small and percolate to the surface constantly making for nice texture from the froth. The nose offers floral hints and hints of apple, almond and bread yeast.  Although the wine is crisp, it feels rich and creamy in the mouth.  Small sips suffice. In fact, this was one of the most enjoyable aspects of this wine. I enjoyed it outdoors on a warm and beautiful afternoon and found the wine refreshing. Its acidity was in perfect balance, leaving the palette cleansed yet appreciative.  The nose carried forward to the taste with added hints of pear and tart apple and biscuit.  

What a beautiful summer wine and what a beautiful price point. A

Ferrari Brut and Ferrari 2006 Perle

t a SRP of $25 (U.S.) this blanc de blanc (100%Chardionnay and aged a minimum of two years though I’m guessing three for what I tasted) is indeed “a terrific value” (Wine Advocate).  Sparkling wines pair well with (may come as a surprise) French fries (first made in Belgium) and potato chips. But I enjoyed the Ferrari brut on the second day with fresh Indian Creek Oysters. Its classic lean structure would pair well also with cheeses such as Brie, Edam and Camembert.  Most important, however, is to appreciate how excellent this wine is by itself. On a patio or deck, on a beautifully blue skied afternoon, chill this sparkling wine to 42-45 degrees F and slowly sip a better day.

Save the chocolate for the port!

“Perle” is a vintage Ferrari wine. It is also 100% Chardonnay, my sample bottle a 2006. I enjoyed this wine with another reviewer, The Chicago Wino, and we were both immediately intrigued. I enjoyed a nose that reminds of brioche. There is nuttiness to Perle (almond) that is stronger than in the Brut. The wine has more floral notes, the nose even more elegant. Tastes hint at honeysuckle and wild flowers.  The Chicago Wino detected cocoa powder. I missed it, but got hazelnut.  The wine is dryly fruity, restrained and delicate. The finish is super long with a butter-rum hint. Yet there is more. Along with another taster, we all found it mysteriously intriguing.  Wine Enthusiast awarded it 91 points. The Chicago Wino and I awarded it one of the most intriguing sparkling wines we have tasted at its price point because it plays the senses so well it defies more accurate description. Aged 5 years, this wine is a super value at only $10 more than the brut and certainly worth the experience of trying to correctly identify all its nuances.

Ferrari also makes a classic Rose (60% Pinot Noir/40% Chardonnay) as well as bottlings of different Pinot Noir/Chardonnay percentages, a pure Pinot Noir and a longer aged blanc de blanc.

Cin Cin!

…………………….. Jim

* Full Disclosure: Wines were sent me for review.

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Rotari Talento Brut Reserva 2005

(at his first sip of champagne) “Come quickly! I am tasting stars!” …………… Dom Perignon

In a blind tasting of sparkling wines years ago, a 1999 Dom Perignon Cuvee ranked 17 of 27 bottles tasted overall. Dom Perignon is made by Moet & Chandon (France), and is true Champagne. Back when these bottles were blind tasted, it cost $150 per bottle.  Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, a non vintage sparkling wine made in Columbia Valley, Washington, came in at #1 of 22 sparkling wines tasted (that were under $15). Ste. Michelle beat out all the sparkling wines costing less than $15, and beat out “Dom” (as Frank Sinatra called it) that cost $150 per bottle.

I was not at that tasting, and have not tasted these wines side by side. But I have tasted a lot of sparkling wine, Champagne, Cava,  Prosecco and the like.  Recently, while pouring on behalf of Rotari, I was very impressed by their entire line and its affordability.  But I was especially impressed by Rotari  Talento Riserva 2005. First, this sparkling wine is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, classic grapes for sparkling wine. The Chardonnay grapes are hand selected from the vines in Trento, Italy, a DOC area.  Third, fermentation occurs in small oak barrels.  Fourth, this wine is made in the classic French method: secondary fermentation, bottle fermented (Fr: Méthode Champenoise.  It: Metodo Classico). Fifth, the juice is allowed to rest on its lees (spent yeast cells) for another forty-eight months!. Instead of racking the juice off the yeast cells, the wine (by resting on its lees) develops richness and more complexity. Finally, the wine is then riddled, and the yeast disgorged.

 So, sixth is a question. How does Rotari continue to do all this today (and the transportation, retail mark up and other expenses) at $15 a bottle?  I’m glad I’m not responsible for figuring those things out, and can just enjoy drinking this wonderful sparkling wine.  Rotari Talento Riserva 2005 is a thirst quencher, thanks to its well balanced acid and fruit. As a “Brut”, this wine is dry, but ever so satisfying.  If you are not used to “Brut” sparkling wine, give it a try. It is not a prosecco, and most certainly not an asti .  Nor is it cloyingly sweet.  This is Chardonnay with a sparkle. In the glass, it has the color of light straw. The nose offers toasted hazelnut and candied fruit with a yeasty aroma that is pleasing (think fresh baked bread). The taste is ever so slightly woody and with a hint of almond, orange peel and buttered toast.   

Serve this Reserva at 42-44 degrees (F) with chilled oysters, shrimp, grilled scallops, strawberries, pear and hard cheeses, or stuffed mushrooms.  Brut sparkling wine goes well with creamy (non-tomato) risottos and vegetables or potato chips (really). Enjoy a bottle on your birthday, to celebrate a new job, or because it’s Friday, or spring is here. And if you would like to participate in a blind tasting of Dom Perignon vs. Rotari Talento Reserva (and are willing to provide the Dom Perignon), I will provide the Rotari. 

Salute!

……………… Jim

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