VILLA GRAZIELLA BIANCO TOSCANO I.G.T. 2018

“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food.” …..  W.C. Fields

Despite my admiration of W.C. Fields, it would be challenging to find a better wine to drink on its own or to add to food than Villa Graziella’s (organic) Bianco Toscano. Especially in the summer when we tend to eat lighter.  Maybe what first struck me was the simple fact that I liked it.  90% Trebbiano and only 10% Malvasia, it was the Trebbiano that surprised me. Trebbiano being so often rendered somewhat sweet to off-dry and (for me) flabby and lacking character, I found this blend from Villa Graziella lively, zesty and with all the citrusy character and minerality that I often appreciate as a characteristic of Italian white wines.

And then it became the opportunities for pairing.

Light dishes. Healthy. Summertime appropriate on the deck or umbrella covered patio.  And just as suitable in the dining room.  If more restaurants offered this on their wine list, I’d snap at the opportunity to enjoy it with ceviche.  The clean crisp finish of this wine, while not being over weighted in body, pairs naturally to such dishes, but also so many more.  Salads with baked cheese, or a stuffed avocado (Caprese-styled)?  Sure!  I even re-made a “white” pizza (topped with buffalo mozzarella, basil pesto, dabs of goat cheese and grated Fontina and Parmesan Reggiano) and the wine elevated this simple preparation made 100% from leftover ingredients.   In the dining room, consider broccoli cheese soup. Lakeside at the picnic table, pair with a snack of cheese and apple.  At the grill, enjoy chicken kabobs with this wine.  Guests arriving and you’re busy preparing?   Offer a platter of pre-cut crudites with dip and a glass of this Bianco (“Bianco” means “white”) wine while they and you enjoy each other’s company.  Want to keep it simple for yourself? Enjoy a glass with a chicken sandwich with grilled organic pineapple and fresh avocado on a pretzel roll, or fettuccine noodles with diced ham, asparagus tips, diced red bell pepper and vegetables.   And don’t even get me started on seafood!

Before you get the wrong impression, let me admit I’m a wine guy after all – not a chef (my plating skills alone should be a tip off). And seldom do I go off for so long about things other than wine. The point here, indeed, is the wine. Yet to talk about this wine without acknowledging how food versatile it is would ignore much of its benefit.  It’s become a staple here at “Mizer Manor” largely because it does pair so well with so many lighter meals (Not to mention it’s a delicious sipper on its own).  So maybe all I need to share with you is the why.

Stuffed Avocado Caprese Styled

It begins with the juice being aged just four months in temperature controlled stainless steel tank which preserves freshness and aromatics.  No heavy wood notes.  (“Not that there’s anything wrong with that”).   But I would add, there’s a time and a place for everything and this is a “summer” wine that’s both a crowd pleaser and case worthy since you’ll find yourself resorting to its use so often.  

Broccoli & Cheese Soup

Chicken Kabobs

A good alternative to unoaked Chardonnay, this 2018 Bianco Toscano offers freshness, minerality and salinity on the nose along with notes of fresh-cut green apple, citrus and a faint hint of orange segments.  As such (no “hate” mail, please) I find it also a good alternative to Pinot Grigio (and less expensive than my favored label).  The Bianco has lip smacking acidity but no bite or “repeat” as some Pinot Grigio can present (at least for me). The acidity in this Bianco Toscano, while providing that cleansing note and lip-smacking character, is not overcoming but instead is in perfect balance.  And it’s not sweet as some domestic Pinot Gris can be.  On the palate: Crisp green apple and Meyer lemon. Orange blossom announces itself on the finish. Others noted ripe apricot and white peach with subtle notes of Key lime.  No – really – I’m not soliciting “hate” mail, but I also find this wine (with its multi-character) a good alternative to Soave which (for me) can lean toward being flabby.

All in all, this wine, flying under the radar as it is, is worth more than its ARP of $13 while being  more versatile in the kitchen than others. At home, on a picnic, table-side at the beach, you'll find this wine a star performer.

Crudites

Fettucchini 

Like Everything Today, This
Chicken Sandwich Is Good Only If
It's Too Big To Bite 

Salute!

……………….. Jim

Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more. Follow winemizer on twitter.

winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

TECH SPECS:

Villa Graziella Organic: https://villagraziellaorganic.com/                  

Region:                                             Tuscany, Italy

Appellation:                                      Chianti Colli Fiorentini of Montespertoli, Province: Florence

Exposure:                                         SE

Soil:                                                  Calcareous

Blend:                                               90% Trebbiano Toscano, 10% Malvasia Bianca - organic grapes

Harvest:                                            By Hand

TA:                                                    4.9

pH:                                                    3.12

RS:                                                    0.30

ALC:                                                 12.5%

Note 1:                                              Villa Graziella has been certified organic each vintage since 2009

Note 2:                                            Starting out with a quote from W.C. Fields should be an indication I take many things light heartedly. Feel welcome to post comments here, or send your hate mail to jim@winemizer.net.   

For more on Villa Graziella's Rosso, see https://www.winemizer.net/2019/07/villa-graziella-rosso-toscano-igt-2018.html 

For more on  Villa Graziella's DOCG Chianti and Chianti DOCG Reserva, see:  https://www.winemizer.net/2019/07/villa-graziella-chianti-2017-docg-vs.html  

And Don't Forget The Pizza.
(Taste Better When Cooked)

VILLA GRAZIELLA CHIANTI 2017 DOCG VS. THEIR CHIANTI DOGC 2015 RISERVA

“All palates are personal and correct for the people owning them.” …. James McMillan

“Tasting notes are as personal as a Selective Service Induction Notice.” … James McMillan

The quotes above should be a good clue as to what I think of tasting notes. But perhaps I can add some value in your search for wines to pair with food, because “therein lies all the difference.” While, in the minds of many, Chianti is “birds of a feather”, it is not so.  For those who have read my recent post about Villa Graziella, you know that Villa Graziella is a 12^th generation farm and has been certified organic since 1979.  If you haven’t read that post, may I suggest you go back to it to see a review of Villa Graziella’s 2018 “Rosso Toscano” where those details are disclosed more fully?   https://www.winemizer.net/2019/07/villa-graziella-rosso-toscano-igt-2018.html

Let’s here deal instead with differences in Italian  regulations regarding use of the term “Riserva”. In the U.S., the term “Reserve” is unattached to any legal definition or standard of adherence.  Throughout my travels in the U.S., “Reserva” or “Reserve” may mean a wine that was longer aged. It may mean a wine made from their best grapes, or a larger portion of the grapes being from their best vineyard.  It might mean longer aging or even their best barrels being used. In every winery I visited, it did mean something, but what?  Well, that was up to the winery. Point being, it is not legally defined in the U.S.

In Italy. It means aging.

Whether that is good or bad is up to you.  Personally, I think it’s good because, as a consumer, you’re better prepared to expect what to taste when you do taste the bottle’s contents and that, ultimately, is the why and how of wine becomes and remains personal to your palate.  But there needs to be a second caveat before we progress.  Current releases of these two wines are from different vintages and it will always be so because of the requirements needed to meet Riserva labeling. Current releases of Villa Graziella’s Chianti DOCG are from its 2017 vintage while their Riserva is from the 2015 vintage. 2015 was rated 95 (as a vintage year) by Wine Spectator.  2017 remains, as yet, unrated).  Yes, Virginia, “old world” wines are looked at differently.

One of the ways these wines are looked at differently is how they pair with food. This is not just common with “old world” reds but “old world” whites also. Today, lets just look at these two reds because, especially with “old world” Italian wine, it’s all about acidity and food.                                                                                   

Beef Shanks With Root Vegetables?
I'll Go With The Reserva.

CHIANTI DOCG 2017

I tasted each of these wines over three days (wines being vacuumed pumped and cool stored). On the nose: Cherry, black plum, raspberry; a note of freshly sliced green bell pepper.  It held up remarkably well through day two and three and by the third day offered a slight note of tomato leaf.  Tart cherry was dominant on the palate. Overall, this non-reserva was zippier and brighter than the Riserva (think Crianza, Reserva & Gran Reserva as with Spanish wines) and offered bright notes of raspberry and allspice.  In the glass, it displayed a very thin watery rim on its edge (compared to the riserva, which had no such rim). By the second day, I enjoyed some dried black plum on the finish and, on the third, notes of black olive. 

You don’t need food pairing suggestions from me: Your taste buds already are craving barbecue ribs, roast chicken with rosemary, roasted vegetables made on the grill, and – of course – pizza and pasta with red sauce.  But also, so much more – let your imagination swirl and enjoy (or learn from) the experience.

To appreciate the difference aging makes, let’s start with the DOCG Chianti. The juice from the Sangiovese spends five months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, then four months in 1,000-liter French oak barrels.  The Cab and Colorino are aged in new French oak barriques for nine months. The three varietals are then blended and finished in stainless for two additional months.  The steel, at cool temperature, preserves freshness and aromatics. The oak adds, of course, some tannins but also smooths all the notes together through the “angel’s share” and helps balance all the components.

Brisket?  For me, That's Reserva
Again.

Contrast that against the 2015 CHIANTI RESERVA

The Sangiovese begins with six months in steel and then another 18 months in French oak. The Cabernet is kept aside awaiting blending by spending two years in French oak and then, after being blended, spends another three months in barrel married to the Sangiovese. Reserva wines, under Italian law, require a minimum of two years aging.

There are some differences in the blend also. The DOCG is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Colorino.  The Reserva is a straight up 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The nose of the reserva (for me) was more restrained, but I noted hints of cinnamon and balsamic (fir?) and violet. It offered some earthy notes also. The taste is deeper, dryer - especially until mid-palate when blackberry and black licorice announce themselves toward the finish.  The color is darker and the wine deeper in dark notes than the non-reserva, through it is still rounded.   Some grip (not unpleasant) was evident after the first day. 

The non-reserva (for me) struck me as being deep with rich fruit, led with blackberry (as in farm stand mini-crates), and - with air - developed notes of raspberry. Nonetheless, the wine (either) is dry and while fruit is rich and deep, it is not forward but, instead, reserved: luring, suggestive, tempting: classic "old world". The reserva is this, but deeper and more dry. Aerate or decant either to allow the wine to open and gift you with its aromatics.  Expect some sediment with the reserva, which is natural. You can strain this out toward the bottle’s bottom when pouring if such is a problem.

Ribs, Barbecue Sauced? Time For The
DOCG Though The Rosso
Would Work Well Too.

With the reserva, consider pairing with short ribs (especially bison with a tomato sauce reduction), grilled lamb with rosemary and garlic, pecorino cheese and roasted chestnuts. I’ve enjoyed this wine with beef shanks and roasted root vegetables, brisket and prime rib; all of which begs the question – which wine is better?

And all is which is best answered remembering that “All palates are personal and correct for the people owning them.”  My advice?  Select your meal to pair with the season and then pair it with the wine.  The DOGC retails for less than $15 and the reserva averages $23 and can sometimes be found for less.  It’s best to start with one of each and make your own comparison.

Steak Tips With Mushrooms? Pass The DOCG, Please.

Salute!
..............   Jim

Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more. Follow winemizer on twitter.

winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

MINI TECH SPECS:

CHIANTI DOCG

TA:                                         5.45

pH:                                         3.48

ALC:                                       14%

CHIANTI DOCG RISERVA

TA:                                         4.99

pH:                                         3.56

ALC:                                       14

All grapes used for either offering are certified organic. Vines (for either) grow at an altitude of 300 meters (984.25 ft) above sea level.  Soil (for either) is calcareous.  Exposure is SE (except Cabernet Sauvignon, which is NW).  Harvesting is by hand.  

VILLA GRAZIELLA ROSSO TOSCANO IGT 2018

“Wine is sunlight, held together by water.” …. Galileo Galilei

The ICEA Seal Appears On The
Back Label of Each Villa
Graziella Bottle

What a simple and poetic expression from “simpler” times.  Today, crafting wine is science (some good, and some emphasizing intervention).  Then, on an especially good day, you meet up with someone from Villa Graziella and you realize there are people who still respect that simpler philosophy, that simpler understanding of Galileo.  Minimalist intervention, organically grown grapes, organic farming. Almonds (see note below), olive oil – there’s not a lot going on here on the farm in Montespertoli (Mon-Tay-Spear-Tow-Lee) in Tuscany that hasn’t been going on for twelve generations except, in our modern times, to say “organic” requires certification.  And Villa Graziella has that.  The estate has been certified organic and sustainable since 1997 by the ICEA (Italian Environmental & Ethical Certification Institute) and has earned re-certification with every vintage since.

Demographics tell us it is the millennials that care most about this. But it’s safe to assume that everyone cares about how the wine works at the kitchen table (or dining room).  And I found it works in both environments, not to mention picnic tables and tables at the beach. Being labeled as Rosso” (The literal translation of “Rosso di Toscana” is “red [wine] from Tuscany”), it is assumed by many to mean “common” or somehow lesser in quality.  Add in that “IGT” is an acronym for indicazione geografica tipica, which rendered into English, means “typical geographic indication” and one might understand how others could take that all together to mean the wine is not superior.    But let’s remember that “IGT” is also how the “Super Tuscans” were originally and still are classified due to regulation limiting permitted grapes used in their blending.  This rosso is from Tuscany, but the only common thing about it is its price. In terms of price to value, this rosso is definitely superior.

Point being you may find this wine a surprise and deliciously so regardless of whatever demographic you find yourself within.  I grew up with simple rosso wine made by Italian neighbors. But this wine was not that.  No rough edges.  Integration was seamless.  The inclusion of 5% Canaiolo and Colorino (both permitted in the Chianti DOGC and included in the wines of Amarone della Valpolicella for example) add color and some tannin to firm up the wine’s structure, while the Canaiolo contributes softness to the finished blend. Nonetheless, this is Tuscan wine and the blend is comprised of 95% Sangiovese (specifically Sangiovese Piccolo). 

Not The Best Pairing But A
Good Example Of How Well The Wine
Works With Food

The juice is aged seven months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve its aromatics and freshness, making it a perfect summer red. And Sangiovese is a high acid grape making it food-friendly by nature.  Perfect for charcuterie and other casual enjoyments. But I was using whatever was on hand and so made a pizza with whatever ingredients were left over from a previous meal.  Worse, the pizza was not in the style of Southern or even Central Italy: In fact, even the crust was made from almond “flour” (horrors!).  I topped the crust with buffalo mozzarella, basil pesto, dabs of goat cheese and grated Fontina and Parmesan Reggiano.  As I said, I was using what I had on hand and had I any olives, they would have been included.  Despite having no red sauce, the wine did well with this simple meal.  Simple but well-crafted healthy food paired with organic wine.  While the meal wouldn’t win any culinary stars, the wine elevated the meal.  And that, really, is the point of wine made by Villa Graziella: wine that tastes better with food. Food that taste better with wine. 

So what to expect upon opening a bottle of this wine?  Personally, I’d expect to either decant it or allow it to breath for some time allowing the wine to open up and display its aromatics.  Enjoy its light garnet color in the glass, tipping you off to this wine being an enjoyable refresher and one benefiting from being slightly chilled. You’ll be rewarded with notes of black cherry and blackberry as in a compote.  Cranberry and juicy plum tempt the senses and the perfume finishes with a suggestion of anise.  On the palate, I enjoyed a seamless meld of red fruit led by cherry.  The wine is medium bodied with vibrant – but not biting – acidity which is the key needed to unlock the flavors of food.

A Perfect Pairing

Consider enjoying this wine as an alternative to Beaujolais and Pinot Noir.  From the patio to the picnic table, slightly chilled, you’ll find this wine a welcome accompaniment with casual plates.  After tasting it, I later paired it with a charcuterie and it was perfect outdoors at a picnic table lakeside.  With barbecue baby back ribs? Delicious!

BBQ Ribs. Another Perfect Pairing, But Let Your
Imagination Guide You.

                                                                                

Taste this wine and taste the simpler times of, perhaps, your yesterdays, your lineage, or, perhaps, just a rediscovery of what wine was meant to be and can be again - for you

Salute!

………….. Jim

Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more. Follow winemizer on twitter.

winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

TECH SPECS:

Villa Graziella:            https://villagraziellaorganic.com/
Region:                       Tuscany

Appellation:                Chianti Colli Fiorentini di Montspertoli, Provence: Florence

Producer:                     Luca Nesi

Wine Make/Enologist:Fabio Signorini

Altitude:                      300 meters (984.25 ft) above sea level

Exposure:                    SE

Soil:                             Calcareous

Training:                      Spurred cordon w/small amount Guyot vine training

Blend:                          90% Sangiovese Piccolo, 5% Canailo, 5% Colorini

Vine Age:                    1985

Density:                       4000-5000 vines per hecatare (9884-12,355 Acres)

TA:                              3.6

pH:                              5.95

ALC:                           14%

Vinification:              12-15 days maceration of hand selected grapes at controlled temp of 24-26C (75-79 F) with soft extraction and frequent punch downs.

Aging:                          7 months 18-20C (65-68F) Temperature controlled stainless

Vineyard Practice:     Organic: Cover cropping between rows with beet root, broad beans, lentils, mustard, rye grass, sweet peas, cow pies and sheep dung compost.

Farming Since:             1797, Family Managed

ARP:                             <$13. U.S.

Note: The almonds referred too (skinless Marcona) are roasted in the organic olive oil produced in Montespertoli but the olives (Marcona) are grown in Spain.