J ROCHIOLI 2016 “SOUTH RIVER” CHARDONNAY

"I would happily die with a bottle of white burgundy in my mouth." ....Julia Child

Take a ride with me aboard my time machine, leaving the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, and travelling forward back to 2016 – forty years later and two years ago in September.   That’s when the Chardonnay grapes, grown adjacent to the South River (Russian River Valley sub-AVA) on Rochioli’s estate (in Sonoma, California) were harvested and began their own time journey into becoming wine. 

I tasted this wine side-by-side with a 2013 Meursault (in the Cote de Beaune, France).  Admittedly, not the fairest comparison.  The vintage of 2013 from that region was rated 90 by Wine Spectator and 94 by Wine Enthusiast. Neither publication has yet rated Sonoma’s 2016 Chardonnay vintage. Allowing for time allows for development.  And Tom Rochioli estimated a cellaring period of five to six years for his “South River” Chardonnay, a single-vineyard selection through not his most pricey.  Generally, it’s accepted that white burgundies will have a longer life.  The Meursault’s anticipated cellaring maximum, for example, was eleven years.

Then again, this is not about cellaring.  It’s about taste. And, in that sense, we  (I and another taster) were certainly not doing a validated test for the industry, nor was that our intention.  So what was the point?  It was, based on my assumption, that if you were invited to a dinner in which Chardonnay would be an appropriate wine to enjoy with the meal and you wanted to impress – it’s my assumption that you would bring a French wine and not one from California. 

Is that always the right choice?  France has history. Imports have cache, and France has them both. France’s reputation of producing quality wine has been rightfully earned.  But assuming one is always better carries with it the assumption that the other is always less. We attempted to keep things reasonably equal for this comparison.  So, Le Montrachet was “out.”  The Meursault was from a well-respected winery and vineyard (and will remain unnamed) and of comparable price (the Meursault was $6 less, average retail price).   

The photo here of each wine as it appeared in the glass is a good starting point.  After sniffing and tasting, each wine could be identified. But they were so close, on the nose and on the palate also, as to prove the understanding of subtle difference by definition.  On the first sampling of Rochioli’s “South River,” aromas of oak and burnt butterscotch were forward but with air, lemon brightened the presentation.    

The palate of the “South River” was more involved (our opinion). The oak was apparent, but now subservient to lychee and green apple.  Notes of almond announced.  Lemon was hinted.  As the wine warmed, apricot became present.

This is, perhaps, less a review of “South River” than a comparison of this Chardonnay from Rochioli in Sonoma to that of the Meursault in France.  The natural question, then, is “What’s the difference?”  The answer is “not much” but important to some palates. On the second day, again tasting side-by-side, it seemed the “South River” emphasized lemon on the nose, while the Meursault was still dominated by smoke.  The “South River” (while presenting only slight differences) was brighter: more citrus, more buttery lemon. It may have been a mind trick, based on acidity, but the “South River” had a somewhat zippier body.  I wondered, had the barrel toast not been so heavy on the “South River”?  The Meursault seemed weightier with oak. (I learned later that “South River” was aged nine months; the Meursault was fermented 100% in wood and aged 15 months). And the lemon in the Meursault was less integrated.  It was weighted down with toasted oak and browned butter. Notes of bitter orange were enjoyable, but opposed by a posse of the heavier notes of smoke and oak.

So what?

That’s for you to decide.  After all, there are those who prefer Chardonnay fermented and aged in steel only.  I belong to the camp of believers that wine should pair with the meal so I enjoy both styles (which includes blends of juice aged in steel and wood).  What’s interesting is that our little, unscientific test resulted in both of us preferring the “South River” from Rochioli.  As a confirmed Francophile, I found that surprising.  I suspect it has to do with the wine being (our opinion) better balanced, lighter, brighter and zippier.  Though oak was apparent, it was restrained enough to prevent the wine from being overpowered by it.

For the detectives out there wondering how a taste could be blind with only two people, I mention that my companion switched the glasses however times she did after I left the room.  She had no idea which glass was from which country as they were poured without her being present.  And, as you saw from the top photo, it would be difficult to visually discern which was which anyway.  We selected by number and the bottles (put away) had been numbered.

Several philosophers have opined along the lines of “No prophet (being) accepted in his home town”.  If there is a moral to this rant, it is this:  Yes, there are certain grapes (Malbec, Sangiovese and others) that are extremely sensitive to the area in which they are grown and I totally accept the reality of terroir.   But Chardonnay is called an international grape for a reason.  It is also the most malleable and that which is most influenced by the winemaker’s election regarding its vinification.  But most importantly, this rant is about assumptions.   Yours.  Wine is an on-going pleasure and assumptions about quality (without on-going tasting over the years) will limit the joy of your wine experience.  You’ll have denied acknowledging how your palate may have changed; how the industry in your own country has changed. You’ll be stuck in a time machine with a dead battery. 

Cheers!

……………..Jim

Follow and “Like” Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more.

Winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate.

Note: “South River” is a limited production, single-vineyard made wine and unlikely to be available at retail though it may be obtained at auction on-line.  “Single vineyard” wines from here and elsewhere, despite being of the same varietal, will produce wines with different nuances.  However, a good place to start with Rochioli’s Chardonnay  is with their “Estate” label.  The 2016 Estate Chardonnay, for example, was rated 91 Points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and is available at most large wine retailers.  

PAIRING THE WINE?

Lobster, scallops and chicken, especially roast chicken, Dijon-tarragon cream chicken, chicken Kiev.  Fish cakes. Eggs Benedict. Veggies with a béarnaise sauce.  Turbot. Grilled veal chops with mushrooms (great with mushrooms).   Pumpkin filled ravioli or lasagna made with butternut squash and white sauce. I made Chilean Sea Bass with an orange-lemon-butter sauce, roasted, then finished with threads of saffron and garnished with citrus rinds. Enjoyed with a green vegetable and baked rings of acorn squash drizzled with pure maple syrup and filled with pecans and baked apple pieces.

For other reviews of J. Rochioli Wines see: https://www.winemizer.net/2018/08/rochioli-vineyards-rose-of-pinot-n-oir.html

Also:  https://www.winemizer.net/2018/04/j-rochioli-russian-river-valley-old.html

And:   https://www.winemizer.net/2014/12/j-rochioli-three-corner-pinot-noir-2010.html

TECH SPECS  & ETC. (South River):

Rochioli Vineyards & Winery:                      http://www.rochioliwinery.com/

6192 Westside Rd.

Healdsburg, CA 95448

(707) 433-2305                 

Varietal:               Chardonnay, 100%

Vines’ Age:         26 Years

Soil:                     Yolo: very deep, alluvial, well drained & from mixed rocks.

Date Picked:       September 7, 2016

Days Fermented:  Primary, 10.  Malolactic, 20

Type:                    Whole cluster, no skin contact, pressed directly to barrel

Barrels:                 60 gallon, 100% French, 30% new, Aged Sur Lie

Aging:                   9 months

Acidity:                 .62gm/100ml

Ph:                         3.50

ALC:                     14.5%

Cases Produced:    223

Rating:                   94 Points, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

ARP:                      N/A

  

J. ROCHIOLI RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY OLD VINES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017

“Drinking good wine in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures.”… Michael Broadbent

Every time I enjoy Sauvignon Blanc, I’m still surprised that this grape, along with Cabernet Franc, is responsible for creating Cabernet Sauvignon: a red wine grape more structured than either of its parents, tannic and with concentrated phenolics.  But DNA profiling took this from suspicion to fact back in 1997.  Now the only suspicion remaining is when (not how) this occurred. The “how” is that the crossing was spontaneous, an act of Mother Nature in the field.  The “when” is guessed to be in the 18^th century, and the “where” is in the Loire Valley of France.

That brings me to surprise number two.  The Loire Valley is home to Sancerre.  It is home to Pouilly-Fume and their eastern satellites: Quincy, Reuilly, and Menetou-Salon.  The climate here and the porous limestone soil argue intelligently for matching the variety to terroir.  And when it comes to enjoying Sauvignon Blanc, this is the juice I have always drank.  It is the spiritual home of this varietal.  Despite New Zealand catapulting into the U.S. market “big time” with its Marlborough style in the mid-1980s, Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire is still my “reflex” option.   All palates are personal and mine prefers the more subtle, mineral notes from France.

Problem is, this Sauvignon Blanc is from California. Vines are estate grown in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County.  I had tasted Rochioli’s “Estate” (blend) Sauvignon Blanc before. (see http://www.winemizer.net/2018/03/rochioli-vineyards-sauvignon-blanc-2017.html ).   The blend is not of varietals, but separate plots (all estate) and 55% of that blend is harvested from the original 1959 plot from which this single vineyard (“Old Vines”) Sauv Blanc is exclusively made.   As a life long Francophile, I shouldn’t like it as much as I do.   But three generations and over seventy-five years of wine making and grape growing experience by the Rochioli family in the Russian River Valley AVA have won me over.

I served this wine with the first course of a dinner I prepared for some very dear friends.  Best wines should always be shared with friends.  And with the first course being asparagus soup, Sauvignon Blanc was a given. It’s the wine that can pair with this challenging vegetable.    My original concern was “How much better could this single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc be?”  As I said, 55% of the estate blend is comprised of juice from this same plot.  I ordered just two bottles.  That’s two too bad!  While the estate blend is seductively delicious, this “Old Vines” (list) wine takes it up a notch.

Somehow, Tom Rochioli has managed in the “new world” to repress yet express fruit. His wine serves as a definition of “balance”, a see-saw of “old world” terroir and “new world” fruit melded with nuance. In the glass, it’s suggestion rather than dominance.  Stronger on the nose than a comparable Sancerre it weaves together that region’s minerality with a hint of New Zealand’s grapefruit and South Africa’s savory qualities.  It’s all there, but each note is reserved; working in harmony as an essential contribution to the balanced whole.

I understand you’re looking for traditional tasting notes. But that’s the beauty of Rochioli’s single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc.  Using them - the crib notes of wine reviewers - would be a disservice. If you appreciate seduction, hint, nuance – you will appreciate this wine for its complex mystery. The challenge in tasting and talking about this magnificent Sauvignon Blanc is dissecting its flavors. The wine is a woven texture of intermingled tastes.  Vegetative/herbal (grass, green herbs, tomato leaf, sage) against tree fruit & melon (green melon) and citrus (lime, grapefruit). Gooseberry vs. rounder, softer notes. Lime leaves against lavender. It’s the seamless melding of characters in Rochioli’s Sauvignon Blanc that amazed me. Nothing to excess. Everything in balance, playing against its opposite. It plays in the glass and on the palate as a symphony, not a concerto. No one note is dominant, each coming in at seemingly the right moment and with just the correct volume to work for the taster's enjoyment.  The five of us at dinner (all wine aficionados, and two of us committed Francophiles) were impressed.  That’s a consensus and a recommendation for a wine you may want to enjoy at your own table.

Cheers!

……………… Jim

Follow and “like” Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more.

(1)    Asparagus soup just needs some onion, celery, carrot and garlic, all diced, softened stove top and made smooth in the food processor then simmered in chicken broth with just a touch of half & half added later. Recipe upon request (if I can remember).

(2)    The estate blend is available retail and at the winery (or through its website).  “List” wines are available, because of their limited production, only to those individuals who have registered to be included on the “list”.  Visit the website, if interested, and sign in to be included.  Many people, like me, on the list are old and won’t be on the list forever – thereby making room.

(3)    Coming up:  Part III: The Main Course!

J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery:                  http://www.rochioliwinery.com/

6192 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

ARP                                                               N/A  ($48.00 “list” price)

ALC:                                                             14.5%

ROCHIOLI VINEYARDS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017

“I want people to know their palate is a snowflake. We all like different things. Why should we all have the same taste in wines?” …. Gary Vaynerchuk

Sauvignon Blanc.  Oak it and call it Fume Blanc and it is a different wine despite being the same grape. But even unoaked, the wine will be different from place to place.  Sancerre is popular among those who relish its minerality. But each year, multitudes of consumers announce their shared preference for the grassy citrus of New Zealand. And still others (though not as many) vote with their pocketbooks for the savory character of South Africa. California is a different story.  And so it goes.

Until you bump into Rochioli Vineyards, Russian River Valley grapes.  Sonoma, California. There are many wineries in Sonoma and throughout California that grow and vinify Sauvignon Blanc.  And I’ll admit I have some difficulty getting past Loire Valley wine being the benchmark for my Sauvignon Blanc palate. But then again, maybe that’s what so impresses me about Rochioli.  Because, somehow, he does.  He takes the best of the “old world” and the “new world,” merges them and creates a uniquely delicious product.

I met Tom Rochioli in 2012 during a visit to Sonoma.  We tasted. We talked.  And then he excused himself because he had “to go crush.”   And therewas the passion of “old world” Sonoma I came so much to admire, much of which began with Italian immigrants in the 1850’s who had a love of wine; a personal involvement.  I visited Rochioli in search of Pinot Noir.  It was my mission after spending time in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. And it was his Pinot Noir that bonded me to this vineyard. A wish fulfilled and one most perplexing given my Francophile bent.   

As years went by, I purchased and more leisurely tasted other of his wines.  Each varietal impressed. Each, however, impressed for the same reason: a balance, a see-saw of “old world” terroir and “new world” fruit but melded with nuances, with respect for suggestion vs. dominance, symphonies not concertos. And so it is with the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc.  Stronger on the nose and more assertive on the palate than a comparable Sancerre, Rochioli ‘s Sauvignon Blanc weaves together the minerality of Sancerre with tastes of New Zealand’s grapefruit and South Africa’s savory qualities. It’s all there but each note reserved; working in harmony as an essential contribution to the whole.   The wine becomes a woven texture of intermingled tastes.   

Grapefruit and lemon grass tease the nose.  A scent of pineapple and passion fruit offsets the citrus.  On   the palate: lime-crème.  I understand some critics are opposed to using “crème” as a descriptive but if you’ve ever enjoyed lemon-meringue pie, imagine substituting lime for that lemon under that meringue and you’ll appreciate the point.  Minerality brings the wine back toward an “old world” style.  Faint notes of grapefruit incorporate “new world” character.  Meyer lemon is subtle and palate cleansing. 

This is estate wine and that’s it’s beauty because Rochioli single-vineyard offerings are seldom available, being sold out almost immediately to “the list” upon release.  The estate wines are available retail.  No measure of insuring quality is skipped, however, in producing the estate label.  Fifty-five percent of the blend is from the original Sauvignon Blanc vineyard planted in 1959.  Twenty-nine percent is from the vineyard’s Clone 376 planting and the balance of sixteen percent is from Rochioli’s 31-year old hillside vineyard.   The wine is tank fermented at cool temperature to preserve freshness, aromatics and the varietal’s character and acidity.  What results is a precise wine, focused and intense while being balanced and integrated:  a delicious contradiction of sorts and a “Flying Wallenda” of balance.

At $34 retail, it may even be underpriced, but I wouldn’t tell them that.  Still, Rochioli’s grapes have long been sought after by people in the know.  In the nearby Dry Creek Valley AVA, David Stare of Dry Creek Valley Vineyard (who spent time in France) was the first to plant Sauvignon Blanc there.  For his 1972 inaugural release of Fume Blanc, he sought out grapes from Rochioli.  In the 1970s, the Rochioli family was selling grapes to the Davis Bynum Winey and the Williams Selyem Winery.  But my favorite recollection goes back to a subsequent visit I made to Sonoma in October of 2014.  A representative from a winery sponsored a wine tasting.  It was held in the main room of the B&B in which I was staying and all the guests were invited.   She handed out a glass of wine to each guest and asked if anyone could identify the varietal.  I answered that it was Pinot Noir and then added I believed the grapes were sourced from Rochioli vineyards.  (correct on both counts).   It’s not that my palate is extraordinary.  It’s that Rochioli’s grapes are. 

Referring to the 2016 vintage, Wine & Spirits awarded this wine 95 points and included it in the “100 Best Wines 2017”.

Sauvignon Blanc is one of a few varietals that can pair well with green vegetables (like asparagus).  I enjoyed it recently with a soup I made of the same, followed by a simple platter of grilled shrimp and vegetables.  The acidity of the wine cleansed the palate nicely from the avocado with grated Watermelon Radish and played against the shrimp perfectly.   Then again, it does well all by itself (1)

Cheers! 

……………………  Jim

Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini reviews, industry news and more.

 

    (1) Seriously: Consider Sauvignon Blanc with Asian Style Chicken Salad.  Since it goes well with green vegetables, consider a salad of baby spinach with goat cheese (or just goat cheese). Oysters? Sure!  Even if you “Rockefeller” them.  Any delicate fish (like sole) is a natural.

ETCETERA:

Rochioli Vineyards and Winery:  http://www.rochioliwinery.com/

ALC: 14.5%

Exclusive Agent: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL.

The first Friday in May is International Sauvignon Blanc Day.