APPASSIMENTO

“I think you've got to keep it simple, keep it fresh. Stay away from all that processed stuff, read the labels.”…..  Emeril Lagasse

Learning languages – even a few words from different tongues – staves off brain aging. If you’re 21, you probably don’t care. But if you’re 50, you should – so here’s today’s word to learn: APPASSIMENTO. It’s Italian and it appears on some wine labels.

When you see that word on a wine label, expect a full-bodied wine. It means the grapes have been dried (traditionally) on bamboo or straw mats for several weeks or even months. This process (Appassimento) concentrates the sugars and flavors (relax – it doesn’t mean the wine is sweet unless you see the word “Passito” on the label).  With all that loss of water inside the grapes, being dried,  the grapes become raisinated and that concentrates flavor.

The famous Amarone della Valpolicella is always Appassimento. It is delicious, but expensive (labor intensive & costly to produce as it takes many more dried grapes to produce a wine). There is also what people call “Baby Amarone”, correctly known as Valpolicella Ripasso. These wines still use raisinated grapes but the pomace (leftover grape skins) is used for the second fermentation. Given restaurant markups, this is the wine I look for in Italian restaurants. Good and not as expensive as a true Amarone.

Many Italian producers employ the Appassimento method throughout Italy. It is not limited by grape varietal.  It is not restricted to the Valpolicella region within Veneto.  While Amarone (the most famous example) is from Veneto and always uses the Corvina and Rondinella grapes, this Massaro Del Fondo is from Puglia (far to the south of Veneto in Italy; an area better known for its Negroamaro and Primitivo (think Zinfandel) grapes. In fact, this Massaro Del Fondo is made from Primitivo grapes.

But today, we’re talking not so much about wine or even producers as we are about words on the label. The process is the point. And the point is that you want wines (even if you don’t know that you do) made via Appassimento. This bottle, with a ridiculous ARP of $18, will reward with deep, deep layers of plum and ripe red fruit and delicate spicy scents; no heat, easy to enjoy.

Why so much assurance? Appassimento! Learn the word.

For information on Amarone itself, see my blog page at https://www.winemizer.net/2013/05/amarone-della-valpolicella.html?fbclid=IwAR2XDi629pVieFznocTGCfs64dubsmfawlZkO0q3YqpaBxqteTOFeN0KsEw

For information on another wine from Veneto made via the same method but from different grapes and not an Amarone, see

https://www.winemizer.net/2014/06/?fbclid=IwAR1hv_6bsotobYA_9QGcgf86zubtzZoGSfnTgAuJEiYB44bZFDwt_EhRa-E

And for yet another, see:  https://www.winemizer.net/2016/01/allegrini-palazzo-della-torre.html

In fairness to chef Lagasse, his quote relates to food, not wine, though the two work hand-in-hand as your right and your left.  Read these posts and I guarantee you’ll never be confused again by a similar label from Italy and you’ll be able to order these wines as appropriate and with confidence in restaurants.

   

Salute!

……………… Jim

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winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

COLPETRONE MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO

Amici e vini sono meglio vecchi.  (Old wine and friends improve with age)… An Italian proverb.

Trying new wines can be “the best of times” or “the worst of times.”  For a dedicated aficionado of indigenous grapes and the wine that results from their vinification, each bottle is fun and layers on another experience. But for casual enjoyers - those comfortable within their known taste zone – tasting a purchased bottle of wine made from a never-heard-of grape is entered into more cautiously. In real world speak, that means the bottle most often goes untried.  Pity.  A door remains closed that may have opened delights. 

From my outlook, tasting wines made from grapes unknown is always a thrilling and mind opening experience but I respect that everyone’s palate is both personal and correct for the person possessing it.  Perhaps I can add value to this blog by describing some of these grapes and lead you down the road that as Robert Frost said was the less travelled because, indeed, it may make all the difference.

Sagrantino is the grape.  It is indigenous to Montefalco. Montefalco is in Umbria in Italy and the best place for growing this grape. No matter who produces wine made from Sagrantino, if you enjoy sweet or exclusively fruit-forward wine, these wines will prove unpleasant.  If, however, you enjoy wines of different character and you enjoy matching such wine with different foods, or even the seasons, you should consider adding some Sagrantino to your racks.

But add it considerably in advance of when you plan to enjoy it.  Referring to the quote above, Sagrantino improves with age.  In its youth, tannins are concentrated. It’s not uncommon for Sagrantino to open beautifully at eight years of age and improve even further during the next five years. As Cabernet Sauvignon can be bold, powerful, concentrated, masculine and age- worthy so can Sagrantino be.   Fortunately, for us, Colpetrone (the producer) makes Sagrantino in a more international style, meaning you can enjoy it earlier; not meaning the wine made from Sagrantino by Colpetrone has sacrificed its typicity.  

Even so, Colpetrone’s Sagrantino will reward you for patience. With time in the bottle, polymerization binds pigmented tannins into larger particles that will collect as sediment and the juice softens.  In the U.S., winemakers are sensitive to consumers thinking anything but the clearest wine must be a fault. Much of what is produced here has been filtered and fined to such clarity and, being drunk young, has become what many people take as a standard.  Problem is, it is the tartrates and phenolics in wines that develop the aromatic compounds that form bouquet, build taste and develop the varietal’s character.  

This 2009, ten years from vintage, still benefited from air.  Decant for an hour or enjoy the next day after opening.  Full bodied, like a Cabernet Sauvignon, but not fruit forward, it exemplifies “old world” style in fruit being present but subdued as part of a seamless composition. Tertiary notes of chocolate and smoke add complexity.   Its nose offers earth but lifted by lavender. Brambled berries reintroduce the forest element.  Sour cherry and dried cranberry on the palate, some balsamic and dried strawberry linger into a long finish accompanied by a hint of leather and nutmeg. Fruit becomes more pronounced the second day with lots of blackberry, black raspberry and black cherry joined by strawberry (jam) on the nose.  The wine is less edgy and its tannins softened.  Strawberry (jam) also becomes more evident on the palate. But either day, the wine’s acidity provides a somewhat tangy finish making it also food friendly. 

Keep a few bottles aside.  Taste them along the way and enjoy the changes within each bottle.  Fire up the grill on a cool, summer night and pair this wine with grilled meats and game.  Braised meats can warm up the kitchen in the cooler months and Sagrantino from Montefalco will pair nicely then also.  Aged cheeses do well as will red-sauced pasta and pizza.  If you’re lucky enough to have a black truffle on hand, enjoy this wine’s earthiness against some crumbled truffle on the pasta.  Thin sliced Italian beef with green peppers on an Italian roll may look less worthy than a magazine photo but will go together nicely regardless.  

Salute!

……………… Jim

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winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).

ETC:

The Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG requires 100% Sagrantino grapes be used, with 37 months aging before release, of which at least 12 months are in oak barrels and 4 months in bottle.  Colpetrone ages its Sagrantino 12 months in oak barrique and another 26 months (minimum) in bottle before release. The grape is noted for its thick skin which naturally develops tannin.

ALC: 14.5%

Imported by: Vias Imports, Ltd., NY, NY.

ARP: $23.

VALDESPINO PALO CORTADO SHERRY

“He who never made a mistake, never made a discovery”… . Samuel Smiles

So many sherries, so little time, it’s important that I get to one of my favorite styles: Palo Cortado. I was never a fan of White Zin, but there’s no denying it was hugely popular and still has fans.  Did you know that it was an accidental discovery”?  Same with Molten Lava Chocolate Cake.  Same with Palo Cortado Sherry!

Palo Cortado begins as a Fino but during the aging process, the flor doesn’t develop as expected so the wine (after biological aging) continues to age oxidatively. Today, circumstances providing for this can be encouraged, but the result will be the same: a sherry that is somewhat lighter in color than Oloroso, but much darker than a Fino, yet with the full body of an Oloroso and bone dry.

Expect notes of burnt/bitter orange and dried fruits (apricots), caramel and almonds/walnuts. Most recently, I enjoyed this Bodegas Valdespino Palo Cortado Viejo C.P. and found it gave me all that and more with smoky notes of vanilla extract, baked apple and brandied raisins. There’s a hint of caramalized banana as in “Bananas Foster” but emphasizing the bubbling mixture of butter, rum and dark brown sugar minus the sweetness.  “Viejo” (meaning old) is fitting giving that the Palomino vines used by Valdespino are 25 years plus in age and the average age of the wine in bottle is 25 years also. The vineyard (Macharnudo Alto) is a single vineyard at high elevation and on prized soil (albariza) that is light and high in chalk content lending intense minerality and is the best for growing Palomino grapes. During aging, the wine is refreshed with Fino “Inocente” and Amontillado “Tio Diego” (flagship wines of the estate).

You’ll find Valdespino Palo Cortado an excellent pairing with Jamon Iberico, aged Manchego cheese, almonds and hazelnuts (put these together for a charcuterie board). Consider also aged Comte and Cheddar. Good too with roasted chestnuts, pates and smoked meats and some roasted root vegetables. Also good against Jerusalem artichokes with dip (though I’m not a fan of that veggie) and (God forgive me) “Bridge Mix” chocolate candy).  Most Somms may disagree, but I find it wonderful with grilled shrimp spiced and prepared with diced sweet onion and fresh garlic. (Each time I served this wine with grilled, spiced shrimp, everyone loved it). Serve the wine just slightly chilled. 93 points Robert Parker Wine Advocate,  96 from Wine & Spirits Magazine. ALC: 20%.  My bottle imported by Cream Wine Company. (Chicago, IL). For more information on this and other sherry styles, see:  https://www.winemizer.net/2018/11/sherry-simplified.html

Salud!

…………….. Jim

Follow and like Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and more. Follow winemizer on twitter.

winemizer.net does not accept any advertisements, nor is it affiliated with any winery, vineyard, importer or distributor.  You may be assured that any opinions are not economically biased (though they may not be appropriate to your individual and unique palate).