“What
Tom Rochioloi does with Pinot Noir is like what Michelangelo did with chapels.” ....
James McMillan
Then
again, Luis Fernando
Olaverri, said, “Wine is the only art
work you can drink.” And someone, long ago said, “If the shoe fits,” but I’m
getting carried away. What’s relevant
here is that I’m a Francophile, brought up, in the 60s, on the Burgundy of the
Cote d’Or (when it was less pricey and I didn’t so much concern myself with
what I was spending on wine). Old world
vs new, with the lines drawn decades ago based then on availability as much as
anything else. But then I went to Oregon’s
Willamette Valley and subsequently to California (twice) and met with Tom
Rochioli. I’ve been a committed fan of
Rochioli Vineyards and Winery since I first visited an met with Tom Rochioli in
October of 2012.
Rochioli has estate vineyards in
Russian River Valley, its own AVA within Sonoma California and produces estate
and single vineyard estate wines. From Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc to
Valdiguie (a good wine to blind taste with a SOMM or WSET graduate to see if
she/her can identify the varietal – hint: it’s like a cru Beaujolais). But it’s his Pinot Noir that amazes me. Estate or Single vineyard (there are several)
the Pinot Noir from this place continues to entice, thrill and amaze. And, yes, even when his Pinot Noir is rendered
as a rose, I am drawn into it; wanting to continue tasting to better understand
what I’m experiencing. Not “new world,” or
“old,” it’s a mélange of the best of both. Fruit is evident, but always
reserved and handled gracefully. 
In the glass, the rose presents as medium-plus
rose. And its nose is complex, especially for a rose: Fresh sea breeze, chalk,
white peach and strawberry hulls, cherry, sweet floral notes, watermelon hard-candy.
Fruit is opposed by chalk and minerality: a see-saw of interest enticing one to
sip and verify first impression. But it
doesn’t stop there. On the palate:
contrasting notes: watermelon, cherry, vanilla but citrus opposes. The wine is
dry, but fruity, sweet (just somewhat from the fruit) but tart in its finish. The
finish is long, again – especially – for a rose. Cherry is forward, but tart
and clean. Some white pepper announces on the finish balanced by strawberry
balanced by tart cranberry.  |
| Don't Just Look At The Glass Look INTO It. |
The wine is a “Flying Wallenda” of
balance with a constant see-saw of opposing notes that makes for an interesting
experience. Fruit opposes tartness and minerality but the finish is always
cleansing and, in that sense, “old world.”
Like a Provence, but not – weightier.
Perhaps it is that balances that so
attracts me to the wines of Rochioli Vineyards. The mystery in his wines that
keeps unfolding and involving me in tasting more and continuing to do so. It is “art that you can drink”. The shoe fits. And I am unabashed in my admiration.
It’s most certainly a food friendly
wine with its acidity. Perfect for
picnics with cold fried chicken at the beach or on the deck and patio with
summer’s lighter foods. I’ve enjoyed it with simple salads and chicken kabobs.
It could easily be appreciated with a charcuterie or a chilled pasta salad,
goat cheeses, some grilled fish (Salmon, Opah). Having the acidity of a white,
but the fruitiness of a red, pair this wine against a grilled (Italian) cheese
sandwich.
 |
| Salad With Strips Of Grilled Chicken Breast, Watermelon Radish and Dried Raspeberry |
 |
| Chicken Kabobs, Zucchini with Stewed Tomatoes and Parmesan Reggiano |
Cheers!
…………………. Jim
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TECH
SPECS & ETC.
Rochioli Vineyards & Winery
6193 Westside Rd
Healdsburg, CA 95448
707-433-2305
Avg Age of Vines: 18
Years
Drinkable: 2-3
Years With Proper Conditions
Fermentation: \ Steel,
Temperature Controlled 62F
30
Days, 30 Days Malolactic Complete
No
Skin Contact
TA: .62
PH: 3.45
RS: 0.1%
ALC: 14%
WHOLE CLUSTER PRESSING and FREE RUN PINOT NOIR JUICE from
Estate grapes with traditionally produced, barrel aged Pinot Noir added back in
for color.
Cases Produced: 308
Picked: Sept.
2017
Bottled: Jan.
17, 2017
For information on other Rochioli wines, see:
For Their Sauvignon Blanc
For its (single vineyard Pinot Noir)
Production is limited. For availability, you may need to
ask your retailer to order a sample bottle.
Exclusive agent in the U.S. is Terlato Wines
