“If you want to start an argument in the wine
world – and believe me, it’s not hard to do – all you have to do is mention the
word terroir.” …. Eric Asimov
December
4 is Cabernet Franc Day. I’m sure the
fourth of December also marks occasions for myriad reasons to celebrate,
purchase and make many enterprises more wealthy, but this being a wine blog,
let’s just focus on Cabernet Franc today.
Let’s focus too on the reason for this blog: it is not necessarily to
review my favorite wines or even favorite styles of wine. Sometimes that’s
difficult for me to remember because we all have our preferences and, well… we
tend to prefer what we prefer. But while my palate is trained, it is not
universal. You may find favor in wines I
do not. So one way for me to respect that and still serve a purpose is to occasionally
focus on terroir – the combined
effects of climate, elevation, slope soil, exposure and other elements that
make for a variety growing in one region resulting in different tasting wine of
the same variety but grown in a different region.
In
the U.S. where we label wines by their variety, that’s sometimes hard for some
to appreciate. But think of Cabernet
Sauvignon grown in Napa vs. Sonoma Valley or Washington State. Cooler climate
makes for wine less fruit forward. Taste (side-by-side) similarly priced Cabernet
Sauvignon of the same vintage but from these different regions and you’ll be
tasting terroir.
Cabernet
Franc is not regarded as a “noble” variety (defined as being widely planted in
most of the major wine producing regions).
But Cabernet Franc, along with Sauvignon Blanc, is parent to Cabernet
Sauvignon, which is considered
“noble” (as is parent Sauvignon Blanc). Somehow, Cabernet Franc got left out.
But where would the blends of Bordeaux be without it? Bordeaux, of course, is
in France where Cabernet Franc is grown significantly in the Medoc, Graves and
St-Emilion. But it’s in the Loire Valley
that Cabernet Franc can attain the ethereal qualities many aficionados desire. And because terroir is so important in France,
it’s not just anywhere in the Loire Valley. Cabernet Franc from the Loire is
known under the labels Chinon, Bourgueil and St.-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil. Each of
these is a small appellation within the larger appellation of Touraine. And the
Touraine is one of four sub-regions within the Loire Valley. Get the idea? The French are serious about terroir.
Naming
wine as they (the French) do by a sub-appellation wherein the grapes are grown
is one reason many Americans don’t associate Cabernet Franc with, for example,
Chinon. That’s too bad, because as I said, coming from the Loire Valley it is
an area for that grape that many oenophiles consider the best sourcing of that
variety. Chinon also is the most readily available of the three. You might think also that involved with all
that French fussiness, Chinon would be expensive. It’s not. This Bernard Baudry (2015) has an ARP (w/o
tax or shipping) of $15 U.S.
But
before I get into this particular Chinon (Cabernet Franc) let me mention just a
little about the area. Touraine is about 125 miles (200 kilometers) east of the
Atlantic Ocean; close enough to benefit somewhat from the moderating effects of
the ocean and gain early warming spring temperatures and relief from summers of
draught in the more continental climate to the east. But overall, the Loire
exists on the lowest baseline of where such grapes can ripen. More easily stated, it is a cool, northern
climate. When the grapes get enough sunlight and warmth, wines produced are
elegant in their finesse and subtlety.
In good years, wines of Chinon entice with raspberry, violet and briary
spice, but in poor years they can be thin.
In good years, wines are fresh and crisp yet lightly layered in fruit;
fragrant with light tannins and high acidity. Light, zesty and refreshing, they
are appreciated precisely because they are not
fleshy and full bodied. But if the
weather is too cool or rainy, grapes will not sufficiently ripen and the wine
will be thin, even herbaceous and harsh. This can happen also if elevage (maturation, the time between
fermentation and bottling is too short). But that is technique, not weather
related.
Bernard
Baudry is regarded world-wide for his wine making role in the Loire having rose
to prominence making focused, textured Chinon. He started the winery in 1975
with just 2.5 hectares (6.18 acers). He developed this into a 25-hectare (61.8
acer) estate out of family parcels and purchased land. His son Matthieu, who
has worked with him since 2000, is now the head winemaker. Matthiew had
experience also in New Zealand and California. His style exemplifies fruit picked
at perfect ripeness levels, vinfied using state of the art modern technology
married to ancient tradition. Read that to mean modern, temperature controlled
stainless steel tanks and cement tank aging.
The
soil there is gravel and sandy. The wine is unblended, 100% Cabernet Franc.
Vines, at 27 to 30 years old as of the 2015 vintage, are considered young.
Vines are terraced along the riverbed
benefiting from reflected sun and heat retained in the soil’s gravel. Baudry
produces several labels of Chinon with “Les Granges” being the entry label.
By intention, this is young, fresh wine, and I suppose you could accurately say
it’s a “thirst quencher.” But using that term alone is insufficient.
This
is a wine that rewards your attention to it and your effort to dissect its
aromas of brandied tart cherry, violet and rose petal. In the glass: a mixture
of tart cherry that develops smoky and dusty notes of violet, dark rose, earthy
notes and dried herbs. This is “peoples’ wine,” but elevated tastefully to be a
companion to roast chicken, charcuterie, grilled lamb, beef stew and simple
foods and cheese.
Domaine
Baudry has operated organically for decades and since its inception has believed
in minimal intervention both in the vineyard and the winery. In 2013, because
of inquiries from consumers, the winery completed the process of becoming certified
as organic. You may not be able to taste the difference in organic and
non-organic wines, but this Master Gardner believes organic is a good choice
when possible. And he’s suggesting that,
regardless of organic or not, you taste the terroirs
of Cabernet Franc. Join me on a short
expedition that should resolve the argument Eric Asimov referred to. In a few
days, I’ll post again about a Cabernet Franc from another country you may not
associate with this varietal. Different?
You bet! Better? That’s for your palate to decide. And that’s the whole point
of this exercise.
Sante!
………………..
Jim
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