DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT “HEIMBOURG” (SINGLE VINEYARD) 2011 GEWURZTRAMINER

"His lips drink water, but his heart drinks wine."... E.E. Cummings

The Domaine came into existence through the merging of the Zind and Humbrecht families in 1959. But the Humbrecht family had been making wine since 1947 and growing grapes since 1620.  Domaine Zind Humbrecht is currently run by Oliver Humbrecht, a Master of Wine and proponent of biodynamic viticulture. The Domaine, in Alsace, is one of the most respected and maintains numerous vineyards sites of various soil composition and climate – from granite hills to limestone based soil and other types, and produces various labels of Gewurz, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muscat. 

Gewurztraminer has early bud break so it is susceptible to frost damage. But it grows best in cooler climates.  It needs dry and warm summers but not too hot or the grapes won’t develop enough acidity to balance their naturally high sugar content and any resulting wine will be flabby. It does best in soil with mineral content and good drainage. I mention this not because I suspect you want to start planting these vines, but to help you appreciate the challenges of growing and making a good Gewurz.  Domaine Zind Humbrecht’s vineyard for this 2011 vintage was on the coolest part of the Heimbourg vineyard. Vines averaged thirty years. The plot faces west so as to get a little less sunshine and where the marl-limestone soils are deepest and offer excellent drainage and steep slope.

In the glass, this attention produces a wine of pale yellow, belaying the rich sweetness of the wine. Its nose offers floral notes and hints of kiwi, tropical fruit, rose water, lychee and passion fruit.  Although more delicate than other vintages, allow the aromatics to warm up slightly and you’ll be treated as the wine opens in the glass. Spicy-sweet flavors dominate in a blend of these scents along with pear, citrus and ripe apple. The mouthfeel tends toward lush.  

BUT HOW CAN YOU TELL IF THE WINE IS DRY OR SWEET? THINGS SEEM TO   KEEP CHANGING.

I remember when the trend with German Rieslings was sweet.  Now it’s Trocken (dry) and you can’t even find a Trockenbeerenauslese (which, despite inclusion of “trocken” in the word is very sweet).   In Alsace, things moved differently.  It used to be assumed that Alsace Rieslings and Gewürztraminers were dry, but since the 1990s, they have been trending sweet.  I’ve had dry Rieslings that were sweet and Gewurztraminers that were dry, others sweet and some in-between.  

SWEET

DRY

 There is yet no government restrictions or requirements for this, but some wineries are promoting a system of understanding. Not all wineries, however participate.  Domaine Zind Humbrecht, for example, uses a scale called an “indice” and it runs from 1 (driest) to 5 (PERCEIVED sweetest).  I say “perceived” because sweetness is subjective and it is determined by the interaction of several factors such as, of course, the amount of sugar in the wine but also its percentage relationship to 

alcohol levels, acidity and tannins. Acids promote sourness and working with tannins, counters sweetness. It matters too whether a wine is sparkling or not.

                                                         

Without going on and losing your interest, suffice to say a 5 on the Indice is a sweet wine. With Domaine Zind Humbrecht, you will see the code (Indice) listed in small print next to the alcohol level. Depending on the label, that may be on the right side or the left side.  And with some producers, it may be nowhere. Trimbach, another excellent producer, does not use the Indice code.  Personally, I find it helpful and wish it were universally adopted.

For one thing, although both dry and sweet Gewurztraminers have shared floral characteristics and flavors, some styles do better with particular foods. I prefer the dry style with spicy Asian or Indian foods. A slightly sweeter style might be better with an apple-cider infused cheese fondue or dim sum. A grilled cheese and slice apple sandwich on rye bread – what’s your preferred style?

SO HOW SWEET IS SWEET?

This wine (Heimbourg) has 57 grams of residual sugar per liter.  Before you panic, remember that Chateau d’ Yquem may have between 100 and 150 g/L of residual sugar.  A yummy Tokaji may come in at 450 g/L and occasionally go as high as 900 g/L. What matters is balance; balance with acidity keeping the wine from becoming cloying and therefore better served atop pancakes.  Grapes like Chenin blanc and Riesling generally keep their acidity even at high ripeness levels which is why a Vouvray (Chenin blanc) might have a higher residual sugar content than your palette would believe.

Delicious with brined pork and cabbage spiced
with apple cider vinegar

Nonetheless, this single vineyard Gewurz from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is sweet. It’s also delicious with all the flavors in harmonious balance. It’s also the last year that the domaine will use this vineyard because wood disease is decimating the vines. I’ve enjoyed numerous Gewurztraminers over many decades and from different producers and made in different styles. Generally, I prefer a drier style. But a sweeter style, harmonious and in balance, is a treat and should be experienced.  This wine, at $46 ARP, is higher priced than others of the same Domaine’s (dryer style for example. Not single vineyard).  But then again, look at the price of many late harvest varietals; look at Sauternes, Tokaji, or a Beerenauslese. (see http://www.winemizer.net/2013/02/beerenauslese-and-trockenbeerenauslese.html  for my blog on these wines).  “Ice Wines” (which for me offer nowhere near the complexity) often cost more.  Wine Spectator awarded this Gewurz 93 points.  It also has terrific aging potential.

HERE IS THE SCALE 

Indice 1: Dry. Tasting as the “Classical Alsace style.”

Indice 2: Sweetness in not apparent on the palate.

Indice 3: Semi-sweet

Indice 4: Sweet. Corresponds to the term VT or Vendange Tardive used by other producers

Indice 5: High Sweetness but without botytis (noble rot).

Domaine Zind Humbrecht produces several styles of Gewurztraminer (see http://www.winemizer.net/2014/12/domaine-zind-humbrecht-gewurztraminer.html for my review of a dry style).

Sante!

……………. Jim

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TECH SPECS:

Alcohol:           13.8% (14% on label)

R/S:                  57 g/L

Total Acidity:   3.6 g/L H2S04

pH:                   3.6

Bottled:           Sept. 2012

Avg Age Vines 30 Yrs

Terroir:            Oligocene calcareous, facing west, steep slope

Optimum Drink Through:  2014-2029

Indice:             5 (sweet)

STONESTREET “BROKEN ROAD” 2011 CHARDONNAY

“Scores do not reveal the most important facts about a wine. The written commentary (tasting notes) that accompanies the ratings is a better source of information than any score regarding the wine’s style and personality, its quality level relative to its peers, and its relative value and aging potential.” – Robert M. Parker, Jr.

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Mizer Rating 4 Glasses! 

Unless you’re a lobster fisherman off the coast of New England, I understand why you haven’t filled your wine racks with bottles of buttery Chardonnay.  While such wines go well with chunks of lobster dipped in butter, they’re a bit much for other things, and you’re probably not eating lobster every day.  And, as things go to the challenge and sometimes frustration of winemakers, pendulums swing and the publics’ preference for Chardonnay turned toward steel: fresh, fruity, crisp, and acidic. But in that effort to meet a changing public demand, I've been exposed to Chardonnays so acidic, they seemed to threaten the enamel of my teeth.

Stonestreet Wines' "Broken Road"

Can we, in the U.S. just settle in?  France did so years ago with Mersaults and White Burgundies, Mercury and Pouilly-Fuisse (all made from the Chardonnay grape).  But in the U.S. while we continue to label bottles with names of grapes (instead of regions) it’s sometimes anyone’s guess what style is inside the bottle. Then again, maybe that’s what makes for surprise and the joy of discovery.  I recently had such a joyous experience tasting again a bottle of Stonestreet’s “Broken Road” Chardonnay and it has put the fun back into wine tasting. 

I’m perfectly happy, mind you, enjoying a Chassagne or Puligny-Montrachet on a beautiful day sitting by the beach. It never disappoints. It’s always delicious. But it never surprises anymore. After so many decades of tasting wine, the pleasure remains but the thrill is gone.  In fact, while enjoying many wines for review this year, few –though all pleasurable – thrilled me.  “Broken Road” thrilled me to the extent that even remembering the tasting still excites.

 

This wine is unique enough to make descriptions almost nonsensical. To begin, the nose of this Alexander Valley AVA Chardonnay offers soft oak but also tangerine, honeysuckle and tropical fruit. And here’s where it get nonsensical:  it hints – doesn’t confuse with, but hints – just a soft whisper – at Gewürztraminer!  No, you won’t confuse the two, and trust me, the experience is delightful. The spice and tropical fruit aromas of this wine are a delicate ballet of balance. In music, these would be grace notes.  And these same suggestions carry into the taste, but again as a most delicate hint. There’s no confusing the two grapes. There’s subtle butterscotch and caramel from well-handled Chardonnay, but it’s the orange zest that excites and surprises the palette.  There’s also peach. But still, nothing overwhelms. The orange zest is evident, but plays as an important instrument along in a symphony of flavors. With all this going on, all this freshness, the wine’s mouth feel is creamy and evidences that balance is not just in the aromatics and flavors but also in the wine’s texture. Yes, this is a Chardonnay that is oaked but so deftly handled that an abundance of fruit is evident, not obstructed. To Stonestreet’s credit (and certainly the winemaker’s) the fruit, I think, is improved through its delicate malo-marriage in wood. The wine is clean, crisp and with fruit evident yet creamy and lush in the mouth.

A Natural With Any Seafood

I tasted this wine again on the second day. With the small remainder, another hint toward citrus, now Meyer lemon, but again – reserved, enticing, not clubbing the senses. It finished with a nice (take that to mean balanced) oaky, but zesty citrus/orange/Meyer lemon in a long, palette-cleansing finish.

It is not possible for retail outlets to carry every wine produced, so if your retailer does not stock or cannot order this wine, I’ve included information below for contacting / visiting the tasting room and winery.  If that serves as a reason for a vacation trip to Sonoma, all the better.  But if you prefer to take an armchair vacation and enjoy pairing wine with a meal at home, seafood is a natural. Mussels and shrimp?  Great. Any cheese based or béchamel enriched pasta dish would benefit from the wine’s cleansing acidity. Enjoy a glass of wine, look through your recipe collection and let your imagination begin.

Respecting what Robert Parker, Jr. said concerning written commentary, I’m sure my commentary is inadequate. It’s so because rarely does a wine so excite me that describing it requires stepping so far outside the cliché box as to risk embarrassment.  So let me point out that Mr. Parker awarded this wine 93 points. Stephen Tanzer wasn’t far away with 92 points.  And perhaps once a year, and even less frequently than that, I award a “4 Glasses” rating to any wine. But Stonestreet’s “Broken Road” Chardonnay deserves it.  I brought this wine to a holiday dinner party and will pass along that it was acclaimed by everyone at the table.  So forgetting the experts and the somewhat experts (like me) it seems this chardonnay has a lot of appeal and shouldn’t be missed.

OK for all the wine geeks out there, (and those that want to learn the jargon) following are the “Tech Specs” that some like so much. Reading them should give you a clue as to how this wine offers such fresh fruit while maintaining a creaminess. 

Cheers!

…………………. Jim

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STONESTREET

http://live.stonestreetwines.com/

Winery & Tasting Room

7111 Highway 128

Healdsburg CA 95448

Tel: 800-355-8008

Downtown Tasting Room

337 Healdsburg Ave

Healdsburg, CA 95448

Tel: 707-473-3377

TECH SPECS:

AVA:                                          Alexander Valley, Sonoma County

                                                    Mayacamas Mountains

Geology:                                     Yorkville Clay Loam

Elevation:                                    1,800 ft.

Elevation:                                    1,800 ft.

Slope Exposure:                          Southwest

Planted:                                       1992

Rootstock:                                   110R

Clone:                                          4

Fermentation                             Primary fermentation in barrel, followed by 100% malolactic in                                                             barrel. Native yeasts. Lees stirred monthly. 

Aging:                                         10 months, 47% new French Oak, balance neutral

                                                    Wines are only minimally fined, filtered only when necessary

Alc:                                             14.2%

TA: (titratable acidity)                0.55g/ 100mL

PH: (acidity vs. alkalinity)          3.53

Winemaker:                                 Lisa Valtenbergs

JOSEPH DROUHIN, 2012. A Tale of Two Pinots

“It's a hard grape to grow, as you know. Right? It's uh, it's thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It's, you know, it's not a survivor like Cabernet, which can just grow anywhere and uh, thrive even when it's neglected. No, Pinot needs constant care and attention. You know? And in fact it can only grow in these really specific, little, tucked away corners of the world. And, and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot's potential can then coax it into its fullest expression. Then, I mean, oh its flavors, they're just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and... ancient on the planet.”….  Miles Raymond in the movie “Sideways.” *

“Pinot Noir is not about color and tannins.”  …. Veronique Drouhin, winemaker at Domaine Drouhin Oregon

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I’ve tasted Pinot Noir from Burgundy and from a vineyard in New Zealand that so resembled that from Burgundy, I doubt many people would be able to identify them correctly in a blind tasting.  I have had “Pinot Noir” from Germany (Spatburgunder) and Macedonia and Pinot Noir in California and Oregon and estate grown on vineyards in Michigan. Many were delicious; some – highly rated – left me unimpressed.  Others, from which I had not expected much, surprised and delighted. At such times, I’m reminded of the art cliché: “I don’t know what makes for good art, but I know what I like.”  Putting aside obvious defects like corked wine or one affected by Brett or other obvious faults, appreciating wine is subjective.  Pliny the Elder nailed that simple truth over two thousand years ago. And while traditionally, the wine world has embraced the “French” style as the epitome of the craft, you have every right to prefer a more fruit forward “new world” style is that is your liking.

All of which brings me to a comparison of two wines, both Pinot Noir, both bearing the name Drouhin.  Both 2012. One from the Cote De Nuit in Burgundy, the other from Dundee Hills in the Willamette Valley AVA of Oregon about 28 miles southwest of Portland.  For the tasting, I invited another wine writer and a casual appreciator.  Wines were served side by side, in identical glasses and my guests did not know which wine was in which glass. 

A lot has been written about terroir, some by me, and about wines that offer a sense of place in their taste.  Could these wines really be similar?  In 1987, Burgundy’s Maison Joseph Drouhin established the vineyard in Dundee believing the area to be ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Today, Veronique Drouhin-Boss and Phillipe Drouhin (4^th generation winemaker and viticulturist) are responsible for the output of Oregon’s “DDO” (Domaine Drouhin Oregon). Even the back label proudly proclaims “French Soul, Oregon Soil.”  So one family, one varietal, a shared philosophy of winemaking --- but thousands of miles apart.   

In the glass, side by side, the wines looked the same.  The wine from Burgundy (since I poured, I knew which wine was in what glass) offered a nose of subdued but ripe black fruit. With air, it developed brighter, more cherry notes. DDO’s nose, however, was brighter with immediate notes of cherry. Conversely, these notes became more restrained with exposure. 

I have to say that I was struck by the similarities in the wines, though there were other differences. The Burgundy offered a hint of earthy mushroom in the taste. The finish was dry and with more tannin and mineral evident.  The DDO seemed lighter overall, though more “peppery”.  At 14.1% vs. 13% alcohol in the French, that explained the “pepper” burn. But its finish was clean and nicely acid crisp.

The casual appreciator originally preferred the DDO from Oregon, but then changed her mind and voted for the Burgundy.  The other wine writer opined that Number 1 (the Burgundy) was more graceful and with better aromatics, although – he said – number 2 was more structured. Overall, he preferred the Burgundy.

I enjoyed both wines but preferred the Burgundy immediately and throughout, though I generally have a preference for “old world” style and was aware of which wine was being tasted. I was also aware of something else I did not reveal to my guests.  The Burgundy cost $24 and the DDO cost $40. 

Sante!/Cheers!

…………………………Jim

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·     These erudite understandings of Pinot Noir were spoken by the same Miles Raymond who later drank from the spit bucket on the counter in a tasting room.

ESSENSIA ORANGE MUSCAT 2010

FIRST IMPRESSION*

·     First Impressions are a new addition to Wine Mizer.  They are short reviews based on an initial impression. No maps. No lengthy reviews. No technical specifications or information on how the grapes are vinified.  I hope you find “First Impressions” interesting in their simplicity.

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A rainbow of wine: Red, White, Rose, and, and …… and ORANGE?  Yes, orange!  Quady Winery in Madera California makes “Essensia” from Orange Muscat grapes. Quady makes only dessert wines and “Essencia” is certainly that. Wine Enthusiast recommends serving it with cheesecake. “Drink it with cheesecake and go to heaven” they said. Then they gave it 93 points.  I agree: flavors of apricot, honey and golden raisin, but for me – a strong taste of orange. While it is definitely sweet, it’s not cloying and the wine finishes cleanly with an excellent balance of acid to fruit.  This would be an excellent wine to include at holiday dinner gatherings. (And I will try it with cheese cake).     

I found it delicious with a dessert plate of
cheeses and Sumo Mandarin Orange segments.

Quadry seems to be on to something with their decision to specialize in dessert wines because they have done it so well. While many “new world” dessert wines are syrupy and cloying and better served atop pancakes, Essensia is a sweet wine but with flavors well integrated.  Grapes are obviously respected and allowed to announce their natural character without excess manipulation. 

In addition to Essensia, Quady offers “Elysium” from Black Muscat grapes and “Electra” from Orange Muscat. “Electra” is different from “Essensia” in that it is blended (25%) with Canelli and is made frizzante (a little “bubbly”) as a Moscato d’ Asti).      

The vintage I have is a 2010 and is drinkable through 2025 with proper storage. Average retail price is $26, at the winery $22.   

Cheers!

…………… Jim
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Quady Winery

13181Road 24

Madera, CA 93637
Phone: (800) 733-8068

http://www.quadywinery.com/