“Mystery creates wonder and wonder is the basis of
man's desire to understand” … Neil
Armstrong
In the hands of a master, simple
clay becomes a work of art. And we are
left to wonder and appreciate and ponder upon how it was accomplished. Gilles Baumann with the help of his daughter,
Laurie, are masters of humble grapes.
Blending Columbard, Ugni Blanc and Gros Manseng they include some
Sauvignon Blanc and create a white wine (Domaine Des Cassagnoles) of distinction. It is summertime in a glass. And it all
happens in Southwest France, an under-appreciated region, which perhaps
accounts for its “Mizerly” pricing. It is
my summer value of the year and should be considered my “insider tip” for 2018.
Columbard is the offspring of
Chenin Blanc and Gouais Blanc and is used almost exclusively as a blending
grape. It’s relatively neutral in
character, not important in the making of table wine and used in the production
of cognac and Armagnac. It is noted for its acidity and used all too often in
the production, domestically, of “jug wine.” Ugni Blanc
is better known as Trebbiano in Italy. While it offers fruity and citrusy
aromas, it too is noted for its acidity. Gros Manseng can add some flavorful
notes, notably apricot and quince, but is noted for its acidity also. Add in Sauvignon Blanc and you might conclude
this wine was acidic enough to leech the enamel off your teeth.
It’s not.
And the plot builds:
In a blind taste, you would be
forgiven for guessing this wine to be Sauvignon Blanc. Less minerality than a Sancerre. Less grapefruit and grass than a Sauvignon
Blanc from New Zealand, but Sauvignon Blanc from somewhere. South Africa?
No, that’s not it. But Sauvignon
Blanc nonetheless. Yet Sauvignon Blanc comprises the smallest percentage of the
blend. Columard could be (depending upon
the character of each vintage and the winemaker’s decision) as much as 40-50%,
Ugni Blanc (30%) and Gros Manseng (20-25%).
So assuming each vintage is comprised of the upside of typical, the
blend is already at 105%. At the lower end,
the percentage left for Sauvignon Blanc is only 10%.
The mystery then is how all
these acidic, somewhat neutral grapes come to make such a delicious wine? One
with a clean mineral edge. Crisp and
zesty, but not overly sharp or acidic, it’s balanced with unripe white peach on
the palate. The lime is creamily subdued
and rounded as in a lime meringue pie.
Lemon, green apple, white flowers, tangerine and green herbs greet the
nose and carry on to the palate. Grassy notes and grapefruit are detected on
the palate also but so classically French: in balance with the fruit, working
harmoniously in a textured symphony, each note contributing to the whole of the
experience. A hint of pineapple offset
by unsweet kiwi.
Quaffable, but offering complexity
uncommon for these grapes, one is left to wonder how it was accomplished. I first experienced this wine by tasting the
last of what was on the shelves from the 2016 vintage. So impressed was I that I ordered a case. But
the 16s were to be no more. I approved an order for a case of the 2017. With an
average retail price if $9.99, the risk was small – made even less so by the
retailer selling it at just $7.29 a bottle.
Inexpensive wine can be good. And
good wine is always good, though not always inexpensive. But very good wine
that is inexpensive is always a joyous find.
I’m very glad I found this one and I’m happy to share it with you.
Sante!
………………. Jim
Follow Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, food
& wine pairings, industry news and more.
Etcetera
ALC: 12%
Closure: Twist
Off
Wine: White
Blend
Grapes estate grown, each variety vinified separately.
Small skin maceration for the Columbard and Gros Manseng. Pneumatic pressing, cold stabilization,
fermentation at 18c (64.4F). Aging in tank until bottled.
Baumann’s Cassagnoles is a consistent Medaille
D’Or winner in Eauze (the local competition) and Paris, as well as three star
and Coup de Coeur in Guide Hachette.
Estate grown and bottled from their Lutte
raisonnée farmed vines, certified by Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE).
Imported by: WEYGANDT-METZLER
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| My belle-souer (sister-in-law) has access to the best brats on the planet as the meat comes from her farm and the brats are made from a local packing house. The Domaine Des Cassagnoles is so food-friendly it cleanses the palate from many different dishes (here, the swiss cheese in the brats) and accompanies the diner as would a favorite re-born hero at your table. 
Eating light for summer? Tuna salad is a childhood comfort food like warm tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich is in the winter, except I wasn't drinking white wine when I was seven. . A perfect foil to the mayonnaise is the Domaine Des Cassagnoles.
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You may not agree (after all, all palates are personal and correct for the persons owning them), but I "practice what I preach" and, for me, this wine is case-worthy.
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