“Battles, unlike bargains, are rarely discussed in
society.”….. James Fenimore Cooper
How times have changed since I
first read The Last of the Mohicans in high school. Today, it seems everything is fit for
discussion or even viewing on the airwaves.
But on the plus side, given this lack of reservation today, it’s OK now for
me to review this wine with an ARP of just $11. I can be a certified “snob” and a Mizer at the same time! That’s a good thing because the story of this
wine is an interesting one.
It begins in 1946 when Santa
Cristina was introduced as a Chianti Classico by Niccolo Antinori. Instrumental in the renaissance of Chianti,
the Antinori family was involved in the famous Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc blend (“Tignanello”) that was influential in the “Super
Tuscan” movement and “Solaia”, also from the Tignanello Estate.
Santa Cristina is a blend of
Sangiovese (60%), with the remaining 40% coming from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Syrah and was never meant to be the others. In 1987, with the passage of the
DOCG laws (surprisingly spearheaded by Niccolo’s son, Piero), lower yields were
mandated for classified vineyards. Among other things, more aging would also be
necessary and doing this would alter the style and character of Cristina.
Interesting because one of
the first things that struck me upon tasting this wine was its “new world” character.
Its taste is a tad sweet - attributable
to rich, ripe, juicy fruit. The nose is
of mashed berry preserves. On the palate, the wine coats; thick, rich and juicy
with ultra-ripe berry. A hint of cherry cola and a whispered hint of cardamom-like
spice.
With
the 1987 vintage, Santa Cristina moved away from the Chianti Classico
designation and began adding Merlot in 1994 (10%) to the blend to make it
softer and add more nuances of fruit.
The wine now is classified IGT (as were Super Tuscans anyway). While
some may lament this “declassification”, I’ll opine that Niccolo Antinori knew
where he wanted to go with this wine and arrived successfully where he
intended.
That
doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy Chianti Classico or even the Chianti from the DOCG’s
6 other sub-zones. It doesn’t mean I
don’t enjoy the dry and tannic Nebbiolo of Barolo. It does mean that there is
room for all styles. And, as I write
this, I’m thinking of people whose only experience with Italian wine (other
than Prosecco) has been with one of the Nebbiolo grape, maybe a Gattinara, and
assumed that was representational of Italian wine. Or maybe they found Chianti too acidic.
Italy
is the land of over 900 grapes, but that doesn’t even matter in this example
because – other than Sangiovese which is so widely accepted it might as well be
an “international variety – the rest of the grapes are! For those people wanting to branch out and
taste the wines of the “old world,” this is your introduction. For “old world” wine aficionados that want a
“daily red’ and are in the mood to lighten the load on their palate, this is
your wine also.
With
an ARP of $11 U.S., this wine is Antinori’s best value Tuscan red. I found it
at $8.99 making it taste even better.
Grapes are grown on their estate hillside vineyards in Cortona, near
Montalcino. Varieties are picked at different times favoring each variety’s most
opportune time, then de-stemmed and soft
pressed. The must is fermented on the skins for one week (may vary) in
stainless, then racked before undergoing malolactic fermentation. The result,
after blending, is a “user friendly,” easy drinking red wine with red fruit and
very gentle tannins. Other tasters note hints of black pepper, eucalyptus,
blackberry, mint and cranberry. A wine for all seasons most definitely suitable for discussion
in society.
Salute!
…………..
Jim
Follow
Wine Mizer on Facebook for mini-reviews, industry news and happenings.
ETCETERA
ALC: 13%
Imported
By: Ste Michelle Wine
Estates
Woodinville,
WA
No comments:
Post a Comment