“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to
live forever”…. Mahatma Gandhi
Mahatma isn’t remembered for
his fondness of wine. Nor is India well
known for viticulture, though the country has a significant area in the SE and
a smaller area (Kashmir and Punjab) under vine in the north. But old Mahatma
was on to something. Keep learning, he
said. So when I made bigos (Polish “Hunter’s Stew”) the
learning opportunity came in thinking about what wine to pair with it.
Bigos is made from sauerkraut and white cabbage. Then almost anything is all right: Wild game, fowl… whatever
you have or is being contributed by your neighbors. I used portions of ham
steak, pork tenderloin, smoked ham shank, some Applewood smoked bacon, a thick
cut pork chop and Polish sausage (kielbasa)
with onion and mushrooms (Polish, or use shiitake). I left out the tomato and vodka. Since I
don’t drink beer (piwo), it was going
to be wine. It’s always wine
anyway. But pairing a wine was the
challenge, and a little counter intuitive since beer is the reflex option.
And here’s where I may lose
some followers: I selected a 2014 Maison
L’Envoye (Fleurie Cru) Beaujolais. There
are ten crus in Beaujolais, with the crus of Fleurie, Chiroubles and St. Armour
being considered the lighter styled.
Chenas, Mouilin-A-Vent and Morgon are age worthy and heavier with
Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Julienas and Regnie in the middle. Now if every SOMM hasn’t already written me
off, let me finish the job by reminding them that Fleurie is French for “flowery.”
So I paired a flowery, lighter styled Beaujolais with a steaming dish of
pork meats and cabbage.
Except Maison L’Envoye isn’t
typical. Darker in the glass (medium vs. pale ruby) than many Fleurie, its overall
character is unique. Lots of dark berries on the nose, it wafts with an unusual
smokiness. Nothing excessive, it is
classically French. But the smokiness
(carried onto the palate) made this wine of medium body an excellent companion
to the meats, playing nicely against the sausage and the smoked ham shank. The wine is finessed and
elegant. Plum and blackberry accented
with white
pepper join in the aromas.
Fruit is juicy, yet restrained and in balance; most important – it’s presented
as part of the whole. Allspice adds
complexity peaking interest above the primary tastes of blackberry and black
cherry. A hint of black olive joins in.
Lifting all this is strawberry and raspberry red fruit. Along the way, juicy blackberry see-saws
against taut black cherry. A harmony of
tannins and acidity in Wallenda like balance against fruit envelops the package
delightfully.
Pairing this wine with bigos wasn’t so far off after all,
though no one will police your kitchen to see what you're serving with it. Recommended are pork rillettes
(surprise!) or meat terrines; a stew of ham and white beans (keeping it French
but using the same protein). I like it
with pate or a charcuterie. You’ll find
it goes well with many of the same foods you would pair with a Pinot Noir. And if you want to get cross-cultural about
it, consider enjoying it with Chicken Milanese made with a sage and lemon
butter sauce. Then again, cold sliced
ham works well too on the day after.
Point being, Beaujolais Crus
suffers under association with Beaujolais Nouveau – that baby aged wine
released the third Thursday of each November.
Fun, careless, celebratory, even ceremonial – but not the same wine as
others of Beaujolais. And the crus – all
ten of them – represent the best of Beaujolais, each worth exploring.
Sante!
……………. Jim
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TECH SPECS & ETC.
Grape: Gamay (Noir)
Maturation: 11 Months in 2nd Use French
Oak Barriques
Vines: 80 Year Old Gobelet
ALC: 13%
TA: 5.9 g/L
pH: 3.63
Acclaim: 91-92 pts Vinous, 91 Wine &
Spirits, Awarded “Best Buy”
Imported By: Old Bridge Cellars (here)
Website: www.maisonlenvoye.com
ARP: U.S. $18
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