“The
best way to get a good idea is to have a lot of ideas.” ….. Linus Pauling
This
is the second time I’ve been taken by the ingenuity of American
winemakers. In the review immediately
preceding this, I described an inventive and refreshing rendition of an otherwise
classical Rhone blend by an Illinois winery.
Now I’m impressed by Domaine Berrien Cellars’ “2014 Polar Vortex
White.” The story behind this particular
blend, however, is rooted in the axiom, “Necessity is the mother of invention.”
But it stands too as a testament to the creative abilities of visionary
winemakers who live with the grapes and live with the weather they grow in and seem
to have a communicative understanding with both.
The
last two winters brought unusually prolonged deep chill to Domaine BerrienCellars’ estate vineyards. With temperatures below -15F for several consecutive
days, many of the vines suffered.
Domaine Berrien Cellars is a member of the Rhone Rangers, a non-profit
group of professionals dedicated to promoting Rhone grape varieties. Wally
Mauer, co-owner and winemaker, grows other varietals too. Located in the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, and
protected by the mass of water in Lake Michigan, moderated temperatures allow
for growing vitis vinfera varieties. But two unpredictable winters back to back
took their toll and many vines suffered.
Wally
was left with so little Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc that he was
unable to bottle each as a varietal without compromising the quality of grapes
used. And thus was born
Polar Vortex White.” The wine is produced from premium quality grapes but sufficient in quantity enough to only allow for “boutique” production – 140 cases. It is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier and 10% Sauvignon Blanc (all estate grown).
Polar Vortex White.” The wine is produced from premium quality grapes but sufficient in quantity enough to only allow for “boutique” production – 140 cases. It is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier and 10% Sauvignon Blanc (all estate grown).
 |
| Not taking any chances this year, straw is put down in the vineyard to protect the vines |
In
the glass, the wine is pale gold with a greenish hue. The Viognier contributes to the aromatic
quality with fruity notes of lime, kiwi and unripe pineapple. Tasted on the
second day, I enjoyed orange blossom and a hint of Earl Grey tea. But
subsequent tastes brought me back to the fruity notes. I very much enjoyed this
interplay with the senses, appreciating that such complexity doesn’t gift
itself so often.
Lime
is a constant. It carries into the flavor, but it’s soft and intriguing. I
enjoyed it along with more kiwi, sour orange, a hint of lemon and (if there was
such a thing) a taste of hybrid orange-kiwi. The finish is tart, clean and
crisp with flavors of tart green apple and lingering kiwi and lime. I didn’t
pick up the violet and peach other tasters did, but we all have different
palates and they all do what they do. Mine was quite happy with what this wine
presented.
I
suspected beforehand that I would like this wine just by knowing its players.
Viognier is classic at offering both aromatics and mouthfeel and the grapes’
aromatics hold up even when blended in a large portion with other grapes. I expected its low acid to be balanced by the
higher acid of Sauvignon Blanc (and it was) and the cool-climate Sauvignon
Blanc also reinforced the lime and green apple. Chardonnay makes for voluminous
wine in the mouth and from cool climates yields green apple and lemon flavors. None of the juice saw wood, making this wine
fresh and with aromatics and fruit being preserved instead of being obstructed or
masked by oak.
But
all this is really more request than review.
In truth, by the time you read this, supplies of this limited production
may be gone. So the request is issued in
conjunction with hope that this year's winter will be more traditional, and that
yields will be sufficient to allow continued production of this blend - not as
a necessity of innovation but as recognition of a good thing. “Polar Vortex White” took Bronze Medals at
both the Indy International and Mid-American Wine Competitions in 2015. But it was all golden to me, and I’d enjoy
having it again.
For
more about Domaine Berrien Cellars from a previous review, click this link
Cheers!
…………….......
Jim
·
Follow Wine Mizer
on FaceBook for recipes, fun facts and mini reviews of wine.
Domaine
Berrien Cellars
398
E Lemon Creek Rd
Berrien
Springs, MI 49103
(269)
473-9463
TECH
SPECS POLAR VORTEX WHITE, 2014
Harvest: Sept. 25, 2014
Brix 21
Fermentation: Cool, using Lallemond Rhone 4600
yeast in stainless steel vats
Aging Bottle aged (no oak)
4 months before release
Bottled: March 12, 2015
Alc: 13.2%
pH: 3.31
TA: 0.75
RS: 0.5
Production: 140 Cases
Retail
Price $20 bottle (less club
members)
No comments:
Post a Comment