“If God forbade
drinking, would He have made wine so good?” …Cardinal
Richeleu
Summer is fading here. Soon,
the berries will give way to the squash, the melons to the root vegetables and
the white wine to the red. As much red
wine as I enjoy, I will miss the fresh, crisp, acidity and minerality of some summer
whites. My recent example is another of Italy’s whites: Friulano. Like so many other Italian whites, (See
earlier posts on Vietti Roero Arneis, DeAngelis LaCrima Christi del Vesuvio,
(Bibi Graetz) Cicala del Giglio and Feudi di San Gregorio Greco Di Tufo) this
grape produces wine of joy and easy drinking at budget friendly prices.
Bastianich winery was founded
in 1997. If the name sounds familiar, you’ve likely encountered it on public
television (Lydia Bastianich) or on Fox network’s “Master Chef” (Joe
Bastianich). Both are blessed with good palettes and the family has put those
gifts and the income those gifts generated to good use in a winery named as Wine and Spirit’s Magazine’s 2006 Winery
of the Year.”
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| LABEL IMAGE |
Friulano was known as “Tocai
Friulano” which caused some confusion with Hungary’s Tokai. In March of 2007
that confusion ended with an earlier agreement between the European Union and
Hungary and the wine today is simply known (or should be) as Friulano. The area of the Adriatic where these grapes
are grown includes Slovenia (where the
grape is known as Sauvignonasse). And
you may know it also as Sauvignon Vert from Chile and elsewhere. But if you believe in terroir, you believe too
that where the grape is farmed makes a difference.
The Bastianich winery is
located in Northeast Italy (see map),
specifically in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia
region, in the Colli Orientali del Friuli appellation (D.O.C.). The winery has
70 acres under production, producing several wines and its star white is
Friulano (Free-oh-LAH-no) “Adriatico.”
Bastianich may be a “celebrity” winery but it is very serious in its
commitment to producing excellent wine as evidenced by some of its wines having
earned the Tre Bicchieri Award from Italy’s Gambero Rosso guide. Joe Bastianich himself was not too
famous in his own mind during his twenties to avoid working in the vineyards of
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia.
Was it worth it? I vote a definite yes. In the glass, this wine
is pale straw and presents
a pleasing floral nose accented strongly with tree fruit.
The taste offers peach. I enjoyed a definite taste of ripe pear. The finish
offers almond and, for me, a hint at lemon. The wine is crisp, clean yet gives
a very lush mouth feel that is very rewarding for a white and finishes in
perfect acidity and minerality throughout the experience. That’s a lot of experience for $14 a bottle!  |
| Porcini mushroom & truffle ravioli |
Bastianich Friulano
“Adriatico” is 100% indigenous Friulano, steel fermented to preserve fruit and
freshness and accomplished without excess acidity that sometimes is evident (my
opinion) in some steeled Chardonnays that are produced without malolactic
fermentation. Not only is the enamel on
your teeth safe with this wine, your mouth will feel refreshed. Bastianich undergoes 30% malolactic fermentation
and the must rests 7 months on its lees with frequent batonnage (pump over).
The result is a smooth, rich, lush white wine.
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| A nice summer salad of heirloom tomatoes, red onion & French, goat-Feta cheese with fresh oregano. |
This is a perfect summer wine,
an outdoor pleaser if you have a gathering and an excellent wine for wine
“geeks” to huddle over and discuss. It’s
super food friendly and versatile. Serve it with a cheese plate appetizer.
Enjoy it with smoked salmon. It would do well with spicy foods, or most any
seafood (depending on how sauced) or veal.
Prosciutto? Absolutely. Take a
step back in time, wrap some around a melon piece and enjoy them together. I made some porcini mushroom and truffle
ravioli glazed in a light cream-pumpkin sauce with roasted organic orange bell
pepper and an heirloom tomato salad. The Bastianich Friulano elevated the whole
experience.
As I continue my travels around
the world’s wine road,
I find that I most appreciate wines that reflect their
terroir and give me a sense of place, and grapes that are handled so as to
retain their characteristic identity throughout the process of becoming wine.
It’s a travelogue you can inexpensively enjoy without leaving the kitchen
table. Today, when some old-world wine is becoming more new world through
technique, good “travel agents” are to be appreciated. My thanks to winemaker Emilio de Medicio and
the Bastianich family for making this “trip” available.
Salute!
………………… Jim
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facebook for tips on wine & food pairings,
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http://bastianich.com/winesadriaticofriulano.cfm
Bastianich Friulano “Adriatico” ALC: 13%
This wine best enjoyed within
a few years of harvest.
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